3DPrinting

I was looking for a second hand sonic pad in order to add wifi functionality to my ender 3 V2 that I am pretty happy with. I also expected some speed improvement but that was not the key reason that I wanted one. The wifi feature was the main reason

I found this deal from someone who was selling one along with a laser module (its the small 1.6 watt and an ender 3 s1 (not sure which one). All of that for what corresponds to $150

At some point I thought I had been scammed because it took quite some time before I received the package, but it is all here and I am stocked. I am not even sure what I've bought but it feels like a deal. Especially because in my country we have 25% VAT and fairly high prices.

So I have a bambulab A1 and recently wanted to print something with TPU. The issue I have however is that the extrusion is just hella inconsistent. I get a coupel seconds of normal extrusion and then a couple seconds of pretty much none. The first layer was only half filled when I checked and I want to know if you guys have any suggestions.

I used the base preset for generic TPU.

The SV08 Max loses about 100mm of height when you add the enclosure, and while there have been some top hats designed before, they all look.. bad. All of them use clear plexiglass all the way around and look really weird and "hacked on".

So, I decided to design and make my own to match the factory enclosure as close as possible (and includes a Nevermore filter mount). Here's a preview, and as with all my projects ~~I'll release~~ I've released a write-up, directions, and links to the STEP/3MF files ~~soon~~ on my site: https://nowsci.com/mods-for-3d-printers/

Hi all,

The attached photo is my brim (top) and first layer (bottom) after stopping the print. I've noticed that my brims look totally fine, but the first layer of the print itself has gaps between the lines.

How do I go about debugging this? I'm using Orcaslicer with an SV08 Max, and customizations I have during slicing include dropping the nozzle .2mm with the following Machine gcode:

G90 ; Absolute
G21 ; Use metric
M83 ; Use relative distances for extrusion
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-0.2 MOVE=0

And a flow ratio of .96 with this ABS, which I commonly use on the Voron as well.

Thoughts?

In my efforts to kill this engine I've started to design a few bits to slap a small charger on, this was the easy bit, but also I got it right on the first print, which is rare for me.

I wanted to add wheels to my hammock so I could easily move it into shade throughout the day. Some openscad later and came up with this little bracket. Uses a clevis pin for an axle, and just pops into the metal tube feet of the hammock.

Here's the files on printables

I am interested in getting a 3D printer but I have no idea where to even started. Is there such thing as a multi-purpose printer? What’s a good source to read up on printers, software, filament?

I am thinking small replacements items like drawer guides, funnel for espresso machine, essentially little parts and pieces that break around the house and farm. Also maybe some device cases (including outdoor ones) etc.

Ideally I don’t want a closed system. I have a Cricut for 10 years or so and I hate being locked into the app so much. Unless there is a really, really good reason.

Edited to add: Thank you all! What an amazing community!

It's only $10 shipped for the whole kit from Creality, so I figured why not. I accidently pinched the wiring and had to repair it so that's why there's heat shrink on it.

Basically I would like to give Orca a fair try, and import my stuff because while Cura gives me quick, accurate print times… Orca gives me far slower and despairing optimistic times, so it really takes several times longer than it says. I have a Sovol SV07 Plus, and technically it looks like there are profiles but if the results are agonizingly slow…

I tried to import a 3mf and it happily ignored everything aside from the models.

What can I do?

Edit: I looked into this more, and the printer’s profile seems fine, it’s the presets that need all the speed values increased by nearly 10 times lol. Still confused about that, but hey. I found what’s wrong.

I think I'm done, hit my mental energy limit. I have a very small 3d design company, where I started by taking small projects, making the design and then selling it on either Etsy or Artisans coop. I'd also attend local craft fairs, or makers markets.

I've had a lot of fun and satisfaction doing this, solved some cool problems for people and made a small amount of money. (Mostly just paid for the printers)

But, the last three craft fairs I've attended I sold literally nothing at one, and only a few dollars at the others, Etsy sales have dried up and Artisans coop never got off the ground for me. I know I need to market, but I've been doing it without Meta/deadbird etc which is so tough.

So I think I'm done and just want a way out.

If anyone either has advice on how to sell this company (its an LLC) or if you are even interested in buying it, maybe DM me. I've got tons if filament, a pair of nice printers, probably a few dozen 3d designs plus a bunch of replacement parts for the printers. PrusaXL2T and Vivedino Troodon300 heavily modded.

Hi there. I'm the Owner of an Voron 2,4, which dosent sees much use because i m a lazy ass. After my last Upgrade: SB2209 CAN board Carthographer 3D Phaetus Rapido HF

Did i decide that i need a fresh Klipper Install. Some of my Calibration: E-steps calibrated (stored in printer.cfg) Carthographer probe calibrated Input Shaping (MZV) done and values saved in printer.cfg Pressure Advance: default Voron value still in printer.cfg, but I tune PA per filament in OrcaSlicer

Problem: Switched to a different ABS filament and now: Walls and holes are off (clearly due to flow differences) Corners are missing or bulging Over-extrusion behavior So dimensional accuracy is lost.

I have separate filament profiles in OrcaSlicer, but I’m unsure:

What must be done once in firmware (e.g. in printer.cfg)?

What should be tuned per filament/spool in the slicer?

Which calibrations are required at minimum, and where do you store the results (slicer vs firmware)?

There are tons of calibration prints and tuning tools out there — → Which ones do you consider mandatory at least once? → Which do you repeat for every filament? → Any automated routines or test macros you use regularly?

Trying to improve my workflow and avoid unnecessary retuning while keeping dimensional accuracy across filaments.

Thanks in advance!

I tried 3d print glue stick. washing with alcohol. wash the nozzle, cold pull, higher bed temperature... nothing,

the i has 3 successful prints with the same file, and now for the life of me I can't get it to work

More problems resolved:

The Bowden tube was not seating fully, leading to clogs in the hot end. I reversed the tube due to the damage where the coupling held the tube and slight deformation at the end. I cut and sanded the tube for a better fit.

There was a clog inside the hot end and I cleared it partially with a wire. My guess was that the tube wasn't seating properly, causing the filament to bunch up in the wrong point. I heated up the hot end again to 250 and when I fed the tube in the clog loosened and both went up the tube and out the nozzle. After clearing the tube, I fed the filament and lowered the temp until it came out consistently.

Also, my esteps were not calibrated properly. 93 value gave me.... about 93 mm. Setting it to 100 gave me 98 mm. At 102, it appears spot on.

Finally, since the extruder gear appeared to be biting into the PLA, and due to the gear skipping, I loosened the tensioner some.

The fact that anything came out previously leaves me scratching my head. The saving grace had to have been that I leveled the bed before I began the previous print.

I've been wanting an F1-style steering wheel for sim racing for ages, but I didn't want to spend massive amounts of cash on a commercially-built steering wheel that could be great but had loads of features I didn't care about (especially LEDs and a screen) since I play in VR.

A colleague of mine, who is also into sim racing, built a steering wheel that was better than almost anything you can find from Fanatec/Moza/Thrustmaster/whatevs for around 500€.

So, of course, I decided to ~~buy the same thing~~ build it myself from scratch for the challenge and to save some money. Because I'm an idiot, I guess. I thought it would take me 2-3 weekends. It took 4 months. It's basically a wheel-shaped mechanical keyboard. It was the biggest non-essential project of my life. I learned a lot, including not getting myself delusional enough to start that kind of project on a whim.

Features:

• F1-shaped steering wheel, heavily inspired by Ferrari's one with the general shape and front. Back is closer to Mercedes'.
• Magnetic shift paddles
• Analog clutch (WIP)
• 7 rotary encoders
• 10 face buttons + 2 back buttons + 5 clickable encoders
• Quick-release connection to the steering column
• Aviator-style USB connector
• QMK firmware
• Everything is 3D-printed except for the aluminium mid-plate and the quick-release

If you guys are interested I have a few WIP pictures, so I could start a build log. WDYT?

Not a request for help—yet, at least. Just showing off the gore from getting the printer working again.

It was living on the floor of the basement where my son dumped it after moving down there. I finally picked it to and gave it a home on my own work bench.

Initially, it was printing fine, but after the first dozen mm of PLA, it clogged up. Son didn't have the tool, so after trying to improvise, I ended up removing the nozzle. That was all good, except there was old pla in the nozzle. Second plan of attack ended up with me heating to 250 and plunging the chamber with fresh PLA until it started sputtering. I then returned the Bowden tube and dialed down the heat to 200. It seemed to hold, so I reassembled the hot end.

Next, I attempted to print again, but I had no tool heat. Power cycle and reconnecting to octoprint resolved that. Then I reversed and fed the filament until it ran properly.

As you can see here, the next problem was patchy, uneven extrusion. I found that the extrusion would continue with a little bit of pressure against the filament to the drive gear. That's where you see the dark patch on the right where it started working again on the second layer.

You can see the big gap in the middle, and it was as it was passing left over that spot I noticed that the drive bearing wasn't moving. so I first loosened the screw that held it in. I paused the print and removed the bearing, lubricating it with some PBlaster. Since that didn't resolve it, I found the tension bolt was loose and put it all the way to max.

Observing the printer further, I noticed that the drive gear was jumping back when it did not appear to need to be retracting. It was here that I realized it was a pressure/flow issue, so I paused the printer again and increased the temp to 205. Once it stabilized, it started printing smoothly again.

Below is the continued/rescued print. It's a rough draft, so the mess won't bother me. I feel safe enough now to walk away again and let it do its thing.

Something a little different.

I love the way they look.

Has anyone run two nema dual shaft motors mechanically coupled in series? the Ender 5 plus uses a dual shaft to drive both Y axes, and I'm thinking of adding another, in series, coupled with an elastic coupler.

Thoughts?

I picked this printer up with a bunch of filament for $60. The build plate was really loose so I took it apart and found that the bearings are loose within the plastic part. Not really sure what to do here. I might epoxy the bearings in place. I saw that there is a y axis linear rail upgrade for $40 but that seems like a waste of money.

I have a Sovol SV08 Max with enclosure. The enclosure has an exhaust fan and an intake fan, controllable seperately.

I've printed PLA with the door open, and ABS with it shut so far.

When would I actually use the exhaust/intake fans? And is there any occurrence where I would need to control them independently?

I ask because I'm wondering if I can rewire them to the same port and use the additional line for a Nevermore filter fan.

Title basically.

One of my windows computers, which happens to be the one I happen to do the most CAD work on, can't upgrade to windows 11 due to having an Ivy Bridge era Xenon (it's an E5-1680 v2 for the curious, older used workstations are fantastic bang for the buck computers).

Switching to Linux on this computer has been in the cards for a while, but I hadn't been in a hurry to do it. Looks like my hand might be getting forced...

I am looking to buy a new (for me) printer. With my budget being around 500€, i could get a Anycubic Cobra S1 combo (450), a Bambulabs P1S (350) or a Qidi Q2 (499). While all of them are enclosed and are very fast printers, only the Kobra S1 is equipped with a filament changer.

I prefer out of the box accurate prints, i don’t mind clouds but prefer to print locally.

Can someone who has experience with two or all three printer give me an advice?

A chummer got the P1S and is happy, so i tend to buy that one as it is the cheapest option for me as well.

Thanks for your help

I'm thinkin about getting one of those ruby nozzles for my printers to basically be able to print anything without ever having to worry about a degrading nozzle. I've seen quite a few videos about it, but I still don't know two things:

• Given the surrounding material is brass and only the tip being out of ruby, doesn't the filament path where the molten filament gets pushed through still wear out over time (heavily so with CF or GF filament)?

And also

• How good are the cheaper ones, specifically the "DUROZZLE" one (since that's the one I could find that's 0.6mm and cheap)?

Hey there! I want to design a 3d printing part for the dashboard of my golf 6, more precisely the top middle part right .

I am somewhat experienced with designing parts in fusion 360 for daily usage, but I don't really know how to design this part.

I did try getting a fit for the front arc and an arc from the middle front to the middle back, then did construct a plane from both arcs and did round the result on both back edges. But I noticed when trying the fit, that the dashboard top is not really symmetric, but has an additional bump to the left.

Do you have any tips/guidance/ideas on how to get a better fit? I did think about scanning it 3d with some lidar device, but I don't have an iPhone and wouldn't know where else to get a device.