Personal Finance

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Learn about budgeting, saving, getting out of debt, credit, investing, and retirement planning. Join our community, read the PF Wiki, and get on top of your finances!

Note: This community is not region centric, so if you are posting anything specific to a certain region, kindly specify that in the title (something like [USA], [EU], [AUS] etc.)

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In an effort to get more activity in this community, I'd like to start a discussion on how you evaluate which insurance plans to choose. Now, it is much simpler to do so when none of the plans you're offered have HSA. With HSA plans and employer HSA contributions I found it's actually quiet difficult to do all the math to figure out which plan will get you the most bang for your buck. The biggest thing you have to take into account is your expected annual healthcare expenses. Once you start taking into account things like pre-tax cost (premiums, HSA contributions) vs post-tax costs (your out of pocket post-tax expenses), your tax rate etc, you can get deep into a rabbit hole and find some surprising results.

I'm actually working on an Excel spreadsheet that allows me to compare up to 4 plans and tells me which plan is the most cost effective, depending on my annual expected OOP healthcare expenses. You input things like annual plan premiums, HSA employer contributions (if any), your HSA contributions (if any), plan's out-of-pocket maximum (per person), plans out-of-pocket maximum (per family) and your tax bracket and the spreadsheet will spit out a chart telling you the relationship between your expected OOP annual expenses and the true cost you have to incur if you choose this plan. What surprised me the most is that the high deductible/high OOP-maximum HSA plan is actually the best/the most cost effective plan in basically any situation, especially if I max out my HSA contributions (this may not be true in your case, you have to run the numbers yourself). The reason for this is that while the regular PPO plans have lower OOP max, I would pay a lot more in premiums for them, which is a hidden cost a lot of people don't consider. Also, the OOP expenses in PPO plans are all post-tax, while I get to pay my OOP expenses with pre-tax dollars if I choose an HSA plan, which matters a lot.

If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to share my spreadsheet to test it more and make sure I'm not missing anything important. Feel free to share your strategy as well if you recently had to make a choice between several plans, what plan you chose and what guided you to that decision.

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I, like many here, have migrated over from reddit and trying to recreate all the subreddits I've been subscribed to. The ones I miss the most are personal finance and investing. I found this one but there doesn't seem to be much activity here?

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cross-posted from: https://vlemmy.net/post/483416

Maybe I shouldn’t be as pissed as I am but, for me, I like using my Apple card for autopay because I get 3% back with T-Mobile charges. What I like to do is use my CCs to max my rewards / cash back and then pay off my card each month.

Maybe I'm overreacting, but I’m not happy about this. Of course I don’t want to pay an additional $40 a month on my phone bill so yes, I’m switching autopay to a Privacy card, but F—, man.

Okay, I’m done lol

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I'm a second year Penn State student. The college gave me money to go to an alternative campus. Because of federal loans I was able to afford it. however I was not applicable for the PLUS loan because of credit score. I transferred my campus to Penn State since those are the classes I need for Nuclear engineering and the cost after pell grant and subsidized/unsubsidized loans is $20k per semester. What can I say to my mom to convince her that it's not worth it. She always talks about the book 'rich dad poor dad' as a reason for why it's okay to take that much money? Besides scholarships I would have to take a loan and I'll be fucked if I do. What options do I have?

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I'm a second year Penn State student. The college gave me money to go to an alternative campus. Because of federal loans I was able to afford it. however I was not applicable for the PLUS loan because of credit score. I transferred my campus to Penn State since those are the classes I need for Nuclear engineering and the cost after pell grant and subsidized/unsubsidized loans is $20k per semester. What can I say to my mom to convince her that it's not worth it. She always talks about the book 'rich dad poor dad' as a reason for why it's okay to take that much money? Besides scholarships I would have to take a loan and I'll be fucked if I do. What options do I have?

181
 
 

I'm a second year Penn State student. The college gave me money to go to an alternative campus. Because of federal loans I was able to afford it. however I was not applicable for the PLUS loan because of credit score. I transferred my campus to Penn State since those are the classes I need for Nuclear engineering and the cost after pell grant and subsidized/unsubsidized loans is $20k per semester. What can I say to my mom to convince her that it's not worth it. She always talks about the book 'rich dad poor dad' as a reason for why it's okay to take that much money? Besides scholarships I would have to take a loan and I'll be fucked if I do. What options do I have?

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If you don't live in the USA, and aren't a US-Citizen, most of the following should apply for you.

Brokerages: People from most countries can set up an account at one of the following:

  • ProsperUs (Singapore)
  • Philip Poems (Singapore)
  • IBKR (USA)
  • Standard Chartered (UK)
  • Saxo (Denmark)

ETFs: VWRA - this exchange-traded fund (ETF) holds 3,600 stocks from around the world. It holds large, mid, and small cap stocks. It generally covers a diversified representation of the worlds stock markets.

Read: The Millionaire Expat by Andrew Hallam

Steps:

  1. Set up a brokerage account. Connect your bank account to the brokerage.
  2. Transfer money in by USD to your brokerage account.
  3. Buy VWRA in a lump sum every time you transfer money in. Try to do this once you've accumulated at least $1,000 to minimize trading commission costs.

That's about it to get you started.

Note if you're in the UK, buy VWRP with GBP, if you're in the EU, buy VWCE with Euros.

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Steps for 🇨🇦 taken from reddit.

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I wasn't aware of this until now, probably because I never needed it. But if you're usually a good, on-time tax filer, but you forgot this year for some reason, you can apply to get fees waived.

Anyone have any experience with this? Just wondering how useful it is in practice.

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I have tried Mint, Personal Capital, GNUCash, and probably a few others, and I seem to have settled on Tiller. Basically, I like the convenience of automatically pulling in transactions and balances, but I like retaining control of the budgeting process.

I know there are a ton of others out there, so let's post our favorites and a short explanation of what makes them great.

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So, times are tough in the tech world and my company decided that in addition to no bonuses/ stocks for the foreseeable future, they also want to stop matching our 401k contributions.

They say this is temporary, but it's already been 6 months. I'm in my early 30s, so I still have quite some time before retiring. These small differences now will compound in the long run, and I'm starting to think I should look for a new job.

Does my view of these small missed contributions actually being a big deal make sense, or is it something I should wait out?

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by G59@lemmy.ml to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml
 
 

A general guide to your personal finance.