shortwavesurfer

joined 1 year ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 2 points 2 days ago

The voltages involved are more likely to cause the transformers to explode rather than just tripping the breakers.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 6 points 3 days ago (7 children)

During a normal power outage, you're right. That does keep you isolated on your own island. But in a case like this, the voltage is likely to spike to incredibly high levels on wires that aren't meant to carry it and cause arcing and possibly fires. That's why you want to be physically disconnected.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 14 points 3 days ago (9 children)

That's known as a grid tie system and my edit mentions that. The only way it's going to help is if the grid is physically disconnected from the building as in the wire is not connected to the building at any point.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 55 points 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) (13 children)

I'm glad this threat is at least starting to be taken seriously. As an amateur radio operator, I got incredibly interested in how the weather on the sun affects radio propagation and power management here on Earth.

Better a CME than an EMP just simply because there is at least some time to prepare for a massive CME. Whereas an EMP has absolutely no warning whatsoever.

In the event of a massive CME off-grid homes and buildings are likely to fare much better because they are not connected to the power grid. The problem comes with long transmission lines where incredibly large charge differentials can build up over distance. shorter wires can't build up nearly the same amount of charge differential.

Edit: I feel it's important to mention that grid tie systems are going to be just as vulnerable as on grid because you still have the grid actually physically connected to the building.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 41 points 3 days ago (1 children)

If I'm given the option, I always choose to reject all. I don't know if the company behind it actually sees that or not, but it makes me feel better anyway.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 days ago

The problem is that it never turns off. So if I have it set, the compressor will kick on and off, but the fan stays on 24-7 and would stay on 365 days per year unless I went and manually turned it off. But the compressor and or fan is always running. No matter what you do, it never actually shuts itself off entirely.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 days ago

Oh duh, I totally forgot about that. There is a knob to regulate the temperature, and that will kick the compressor off. Currently I just have it set to as cold as it will get and then cut power to the unit itself with the plug. It stays off for a good 40 minutes at a time, which is plenty of time to drain the pressure properly before starting up again.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 days ago (1 children)

Okay, that's fine. I can totally do that.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 1 points 4 days ago (2 children)

I can't do that. Without doing it myself, the compressor will absolutely never turn off. Unless I manually flip the switch. There was another commenter below that said that it wasn't a problem as long as you didn't try to start it up again too quickly and I don't so that's all right

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 2 points 4 days ago

Band openings are heat inversions where the atmosphere higher up is warmer than it ought to be. Normally, as you go higher up, you would expect the temperature to cool. And in most cases, that is true. But in the case of a band opening, there's a warm layer sandwiched between two cooler layers of air.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 4 points 5 days ago (9 children)

Unfortunately, it's got no kind of remote at all. It's a physical dial to turn it on to high low or fan high low and a physical dial to turn up or down the temperature setting.

That's why I got a smart plug for it to begin with because there were times when I would fall asleep at like 10 p.m. and wake up at 3 a.m. with the damn thing still running.

It is only a 550 watt unit, but I was not aware that hard power cycling it like that would eventually hurt it. So at least thanks for that information.

[–] shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip 1 points 5 days ago

Not yet. I'm thinking about modifying it, but haven't done so. Quite yet.

17
submitted 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/homeassistant@lemmy.world
 

So I have my AC connected to a smart plug and I'm trying to figure out what would be the best way to go about automating it.

Currently, I have it set to run every hour on the hour for 20 minutes if the time is between noon and 8 p.m. Which covers the hottest part of the day.

However, what I could do is have it run every other hour instead and have a couple of night runs along with the daytime runs.

Doing it that way would eliminate most of the 16-hour period currently that exists between the ending of one day and the beginning of the next.

Edit: Also, is there an easy way to automate every other hour using the time pattern or would I manually have to set up triggers for 2am, 4am, 6am, 8am, 10am, etc. using the fixed values?

Edit 2: looks like i can use "/2" to accomplish that

 

I'm looking for an audio-described version of her 2013. And, at least on Blind Mice, I'm not seeing one, and that's where I normally find my audio-described movies.

Edit: Never mind, Blind Mice does have it. It just took me a while to realize that it had multiple pages that I had to click through.

7
submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/homeassistant@lemmy.world
 

I would like to use device names such as "NBR-NW1 (John's AC)" which is shorthand for "North Bedroom North Wall1 (John's AC)". However, it appears as though when I ask the assistant to "turn on John's AC", it does not match it to anything.

46
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/homeassistant@lemmy.world
 

I used Home Assistant to create my very first automation today. It's really stupid simple, but I feel as though things will only get crazier from here.

Context: i have an old dumb window AC that has 2 physical dials. One turns fan- low, fan-high, cool-low, and cool- high while the other is labeled from 1 to 8 with 1 being warm and 8 being coldest. This AC is either on or its not. Even if the compressor is not running the fan runs 24/7 until it is physically switched off.

My current automation checks once per hour, and if the temperature is above 80 degrees, it will notify me to turn on the air conditioner.

I intend to buy one of the third reality smart plugs soon and switch the action from notify to "turn on the third reality plug for 10 minutes". Then I will just leave the unit itself on Cool High and let the plug manage the power.

Eventually, I think I will also buy a third-reality temperature sensor and set the trigger to if the temperature sensor says that the room itself is above 80 degrees instead of using the forecast.

3
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/monero@lemmy.cafe
 

What's Changed

  • Add extra information to all offers by @woodser in #1557
  • Clone offers up to 10 times with shared reserved funds @woodser in #1668
  • Support Linux AARCH64/ARM64 by @NorrinRadd in #1665
  • Reactivate triggered offers if within trigger price again by @woodser in #1598
  • Use default transaction fees instead of elevated priority by @woodser in #1590
  • Prompt to start local node on startup if last used by @woodser in #1667
  • Enable floating price Cardless Cash offers by @woodser in #1568
  • Improve protocol reliability by resending payment messages until acknowledged by @woodser in #1654
  • Search boxes are more capable by @woodser in #1681
  • Do not publish or accept offers when disconnected from Monero node by @woodser in #1648
  • Add DAI stablecoin (ERC20) by @woodser in #1600
  • Add PaySafe payment method by @woodser in #1632
  • WeChat Pay supports CNY, USD, EUR, and GBP currencies by @woodser in #1558
  • AliPay supports all currencies by @woodser in #1559
  • Create demo video by @Minecon724 in #1352
  • Update monero-project to v0.18.4.0 by @woodser in #1675
  • Update monero-java to v0.8.36 by @woodser in #1590
  • Update Tor browser to v14.0.7 and tor binary to v0.4.8.14 by @boldsuck in #1650
  • Add documentation to use external tor by @PromptPunksFauxCough in #1627
  • Add documentation to install Haveno on Whonix & Qubes by @PromptPunksFauxCough in #1628
  • Fix support hyperlink by @jermanuts in #1608
  • Improve payment account serialization by @jsyk57 in #1620
  • Many bug fixes and usability improvements
 

It comes in 5,000 mAh and 10,000 mAh variants and will use 95% of the battery in power bank mode and reserve the bottom 5% to run the mesh node. I think you can run the mesh node and use all 100% of the battery if you wish, but the power bank mode can only use 95% of it. I think it's based on the NRF52 and SX1262 radio.

Edit: Sorry for the duplicate post. Please feel free to delete it, because I can't figure out how to.

 

Edit: to anyone who can add Socks 5 support to the app and get a pull request accepted I'm offering the equivalent of $84 in Monero which would be a year of what I would pay for the cloud subscription

 

So I just learned that apparently Home Assistant has absolutely no user account control. My roommate has no need to access the lights, electrical outlets, etc. in my room, and has absolutely no reason to be able to see my phone's battery charge level and charger status.

18
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/homeassistant@lemmy.world
 

I currently have an ADT system and am looking at ditching it for a HA green with zigbee adapter and doing motion sensors, door/window sensors, smoke alarms, etc over zigbee in HA. The roommate would like cameras and i would like something that doesnt require an account on a company servers that could go bankrupt or phone home. Any suggestions?

Edit: While I doubt it, would it be possible to continue using the ADT sensors with HA instead of having to replace them all? I am assuming they are proprietary garbage and won't work, but being proved wrong would not be a bad thing.

edit 2: my idea so far

  • HA Green (currently running on a Pi 4 just to get a feel for HAOS)
  • Reolink home hub (for managing battery wireless cams and storing video recordings
  • reolink Argus 3E cameras and possibly the doorbell (they detect motion, stream video, and have a floodlight which may get exposed to HA as entities under each cam device)
  • HA ZBT-1 (for zigbee/matter devices)
  • zigbee door/window contact sensors
10
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by shortwavesurfer@lemmy.zip to c/meshtastic@mander.xyz
 
  • Channel Name: ShortFast
  • Channel Key: AQ==
  • Channel Uplink: ON
  • Channel Downlink: ON
  • Device Role: CLIENT
  • LoRa Hops: 7
  • LoRa Preset: ShortFast
  • MQTT Topic: msh/US

The Channel name and key are auto set by choosing the ShortFast LoRa preset. Once there are enough people we can start state topics.

 

If you dont use the default LongFast meshtastic is really empty. I switched my node to MediumSlow, since it's like 86% faster than LongFast. I knew there would not be any in my area, so I subscribed to the msh/US MQTT topic and theres still nobody else. I'm going to leave it like that for a while and see if I hear anything during any kind of band openings or catch any other MQTT nodes trying out that topic. And yes, both uplink and downlink are enabled. I do know that there are some nodes in the Bay Area on msh/US/mqtt-bayme-sh, but I am not near their.

 

So I have been using Meshtastic for a bit over a month now, and I've been hearing about MeshCore, which sounds interesting, although it's much smaller. Tonight, I decided to give it a test, and while there's nobody around me who I can test with, my initial impressions of the firmware is that it's early, but good. With that said, from everything I can tell, the applications to control it from Android and iOS do not appear to be open source. And I absolutely refuse to become interested in something that is not open source. So that's a big no-no for me. If I am wrong, I would definitely be willing to try it again. But if I am right, the only way I would consider using it is if somebody else writes an app that is open source.

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