Food and Cooking

In 2024, nearly three out of every four restaurant orders were not eaten in a restaurant, according to data provided to me by the National Restaurant Association, a trade group. The share of customers using delivery specifically, as opposed to picking up takeout or going to a drive-through, more than doubled from 2019 to 2024. In a recently released poll by the association, 41 percent of respondents said that delivery was “an essential part of their lifestyle.” For Millennials and Generation Z—the apex consumers of today, and of tomorrow too—it’s apparently even more essential: More than half of adults under 45 use delivery at least once a week, and 13 percent use it once a day. Five percent use it multiple times a day. But the delivery boom isn’t confined to young people or to urbanites: About one in eight Baby Boomers uses delivery once a week, and so does about one in five rural dwellers. We are a nation of order-inners. A world, really—earlier this year, DoorDash announced a deal to acquire the British delivery service Deliveroo for $3.86 billion; the new, combined company will have 50 million monthly active users, spread over more than 40 countries.

For as long as fast-food and pizza joints have existed, certain restaurants have been defined by, and designed for, takeout and delivery. But delivery has now come for what industry analysts call “full-service restaurants”—that is, the types of places where a server guides you through your meal from start to finish, or at least used to. These days, 30 percent of those restaurants’ orders are consumed somewhere else, according to the National Restaurant Association. The fanciest, most famous restaurants are still doing mostly table service, but just about every other establishment has been conscripted into the army that ferries hot food out of professional kitchens and into American mouths 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Meanwhile, the longtime industry analyst Joseph Pawlak told me, “you could shoot a cannon” through many dining rooms on a Tuesday night.

In effect, delivery has reversed the flow of eaters to food, and remade a shared experience into a much more individual one. If communities used to clench like a fist around their restaurants, now they look more like an open palm, fingers stretched out as far as possible, or at least to the edge of the delivery radius.

Saw a neat piece about someone who recreated a 1611 Spanish recipe for “panecillos” or “colaciones” and wanted to share. They followed the old instructions (from a 1611 cookbook) and tested ingredients and methods to match texture and flavor — lean, slightly sweet rolls with a rustic crumb and a hint of spice. The tester adjusted hydration and proofing for modern flours and ovens, and reports pleasingly authentic results: crisp, lightly browned crusts and an interior denser than modern soft rolls, with a pronounced wheaty, slightly toasted flavor.

Despite traveling to Vietnam a half dozen times to write about the cuisine, until now I had overlooked phở as a subject, perhaps because of its ubiquity on every Vietnamese restaurant menu. But one day while enjoying a bowl of it in New York City, I thought: Phở is the national dish of Vietnam, devoured from Ha Long Bay to the Mekong Delta. But where did it actually originate?

I knew its roots were in northern Vietnam. I also knew that phở bắc—northern phở—is different from the phở I’d been eating most of my life. In the U.S., we’re usually served the southern Vietnamese version, whose broth is sweeter and more herbaceous, and the dish comes with a side of sprouts, Thai basil, cilantro, hoisin sauce, sriracha, and jalapeño. In the north, the broth lacks the same sweetness, and the side accompaniments are usually pickled garlic and sliced red hot peppers. I’d fallen hard for northern-style phở.

When I asked friends in Vietnam about its origins, their responses varied. Some said phở—most easily pronounced fuh for English speakers—was first created in Hanoi. Others pointed to an outlying province. To complicate matters, theories differed about the influence of French colonialism and Chinese occupation. To trace the soup’s roots, not to mention find the best bowl of phở in Vietnam, I decided to make a pilgrimage to the capital, Hanoi.

Turns out getting takeout takes longer than cooking at home. I of course would make a vegan version, but that would also save like half the price of the meat.

Was watching an old episode of Mama's Family the other day and this was mentioned. I had no idea what it was, so I landed here. Probably gonna give this a try sometime this week because it looks amazing. I also don't see casseroles very often anymore.

In my area, cooking wine does not exist. I can only easily find Sherry (for drinking) at 15% alcohol. I was told it should have 20% to be shelf-stable for ~6—24 months.

There is white port at 19½% alc. Not sure if that differs much from sherry in taste, but I suppose 19½% is close enough for shelf-stability.

Should I add table salt to the sherry to make it shelf stable? Or add brandy? Or switch to white port? Or even just brandy?

My main use: less than ~½—¾ shot mixed with corn starch as the thickening basis for stir-fries. I don’t really use sherry for anything else. I don’t even drink it because I so commonly use it in stir-fries that as a straight drink it’s like drinking Kung Pao Chicken because I can’t mentally dissociate it.

I also wonder if I should be looking for dry sherry, or simple sherry. I want the stir-fries to have the sweetness of strong sherry, so I guess dry variants would be contrary to that.

update -- still unclear

Folks are saying ~12—15% is enough for shelf-stability. The non-fortified wines I have are in that range. So I’m baffled because I believe normal wine turns to vinegar if left at room temp after opening.

I also wonder if Sherry is only very slightly fortified since 15% isn’t much more than normal wine.

I made this up because I was hungry. It worked pretty well, but the bouillon made it a bit too salty.

Ingredients: chicken, noodles, bouillon, vegetables, cheese, onion, garlic, sour cream, spices.

1. Grab a handful of noodles and place in small pot, then cover with water.
2. Start boiling noodles on high while adding bullion.
3. Chop up some onions and garlic and add to pot with whatever veg (I used 1/2 lb frozen green beans). Add more veg than visually makes sense because the noodles will get bigger). Reduce heat.
4. Chop up leftover chicken -- including skin -- and throw in pot. If you have fussy kids, chop skin small enough that it'll blend in. I had leftover rotisserie.
5. Add some cheese and spices once the chicken is warmed up. I used cheddar for color and Herbes de Provence.
6. Turn off heat and gently stir in some sour cream to cool it down. Don't go overboard. Serve in bowl with a grind of pepper on top. Eat with spoon.

Yummers

I can't afford a house, but I can afford a delicious breakfast.

Legitimately my favorite breakfast dish and you can make it for under $1.50 and in less than 10 minutes.

Two pieces of buttered toast = $.19

One avocado = $.59

Two over easy eggs = $.43

Sriracha

A few drops of lemon juice

Everything bagel seasoning

As a non-native english speaker my search for recipes has lead me wondering what the hell is a "spanish onion" as some recipes call for. my understanding from googling is that it is a special variety of the basic yellow onion kind of like varieties like san marzano are for tomatoes or just another name for the 'basic yellow onion.'

When I can't sleep, I food prep. I decided to share today's results. I've made this vegetarian enchilada recipe before, and found the process for roasting poblanos inferior. I also modified the enchilada ingredients, and wanted a more powerfully poblano sauce. It tasted better before I added too many ingredients, so tonight I experimented by making something more like the title recipe above.

First I roasted the poblanos whole in the oven broiler. Using a gas stove burner or a grill outside also works. Next was the messy part of skinning and seeding them after they had a chance to cool a little in a bag. Image of the result:

I then added everything except sour cream and blended. Food processors or any blender works for this. I used an immersion blender.

After blending, I took a little out before adding sour cream so I could use it in guacamole, which I suddenly decided I should make. So, back to the blender and onto the guac.

I used store bought salsa fresca, more garlic, and red onion. Since guacamole goes bad quickly, I only used 2 avocados and mashed by hand (not blender).

After a good mash, I added lime juice, mixed, then cilantro last so I could stir it in without smashing the delicate leaves. And done! We'll have nachos with guacamole today and use sauce for some unknown dinner.

Interesting article on fishing salmon, how to cook them, and why Americans are eating farmed salmon despite most of them were being fished.

Red currant jelly day. We had an abundance this year. The branches were touching the ground. I made two full batches and have enough juice for four more plus tonight's smoothies.

Yay currants.

It's tree ice cream time, yet again! And you might be asking yourself, why on earth are you talking about Christmas trees in the middle of summer? WELP, spruce tips are a summertime crop! And they make for an excellent ice cream flavor if you ask me!

Cooking portion starts at 6:30

Woodworking portion starts at 11:00

Much change is underway on the food and agriculture front, to put it mildly. But it’s also summer, a time to step back, relax, and recharge. Toward that end, we at Civil Eats offer our annual summer book guide. These 23 new or forthcoming titles run the gamut, from big-picture examinations of food-system issues and food philosophies to histories, memoirs, and cookbooks. This year, we’ve included two illustrated titles, too: a graphic memoir about the American ginseng industry and an illustrated children’s book about the life of restaurateur Cecilia Chiang.

We’re always looking for books that propose solutions to challenges in the food system, and this year we’re recommending several, including a guidebook to saving the planet, a collection of life lessons from chef and restaurateur José Andrés, and a look at what we can learn from the lives of honeybees. Happy reading!

Coffee is more than a beverage—it’s a shared experience that transcends cultures, generations, and moods. From the first morning sip to late-night creative fuel, coffee has a way of grounding us while sparking inspiration. Its aroma evokes comfort, its taste tells stories of distant lands, and its ritual brings people together. Whether you’re savoring a single-origin pour-over or grabbing a quick espresso on the go, dark roast sumatra coffee adapts to your rhythm and reflects your personality. And with growing appreciation for ethical sourcing and artisanal roasting, every cup becomes a celebration of flavor and fairness.

Here’s why coffee continues to captivate hearts worldwide:

☕ Versatile Enjoyment: Hot, iced, blended, or brewed—there’s a style for every mood.

🌱 Mindful Sourcing: Single-origin beans and fair trade practices elevate the experience.

🧠 Mental Clarity: Boosts focus, creativity, and productivity.

🫶 Social Ritual: Sparks connection in cafés, homes, and workplaces.

🌍 Cultural Legacy: From Ethiopian ceremonies to Italian espresso bars, coffee reflects heritage.

🎁 Gifting Favorite: Coffee samplers and accessories make thoughtful, personal gifts.