Do It Yourself

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Make it, Fix it, Renovate it, Rehabilitate it - as long as you’ve done some part of it yourself, share!

Especially for gardening related or specific do-it-yourself projects, see also the Nature and Gardening community. For more creative-minded projects, see also the Creative community.


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submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by mikke@feddit.nl to c/diy@beehaw.org
 
 

Hi πŸ‘‹

I have a small zigbee (mini-z1-3ch ) relay module having a ribbon with tiny wires I'm planning to connect to push buttons.

I don't have proper connectors for small wires like that and I'm not sure what's appropriate. Maybe someone here would have a suggestion ?

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I now live near a pine tree and don't know what to do with all of the pine cones. Decorations? Just burn them in a fire pit? Any ideas welcome.

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Dear friends,

Last month, I posted this big project idea of mine to Beehaw's as well as Hexbear's DIY communities. Now I'd like to give you an update.

All figures I'm referring to are here: https://imgur.com/a/b8vGfQf

First, a big thank you to all who have replied, you've helped me a lot in making this project a reality. I have distilled your answers, tips and critiques into a text document, and I can happily tell you that they gave me a more realistic understanding of what I want to accomplish.

I formatted the post like this because it's quite long, and I like to yap, as the kids say.

General thoughts:So, my original post showed the project as I envisioned it for a while now. Many of you have made me realise that there are a myriad of factors to consider, just for hanging the shelves on the wall ... not to mention the difficulty of sawing, building, painting everything yourself, as well as the price! Good lumber ain't cheap, kids! I didn't mention it in the original post, but for a while, I was also thinking of a solution as described here, but I really need something sturdy, and I didn't really care for the aesthetic look of it, so I dismissed the idea. Friends, I'm happy to say that I think I found a middle ground. There are still some questions to be answered and difficulties to overcome, but I haven't been this excited (manic) about this project since a while now. Here's the plan:

My current plan, basically:

  • See fig. 1.
  • I ended up deciding to build the whole thing out of IKEA Kallax shelves and cut-to-size painted wood.
  • Two IKEA 4x1 Kallax shelves (002.758.48) replace the vertical support beams, which I called "L-shaped studs" in my original post.
  • In between those two Kallax shelves (198cm), there is a wooden board, that has been cut to the appropriate size and painted white. This board also acts as a shelf and sits on top of the two Kallax-es.
  • Below this, we find the TV sideboard (also Kallax, 705.620.87).
  • Between the TV sideboard and the tall Kallax shelves there is about 25 cm of space, perfect for two loudspeakers.
  • On the extremities of the wall, there are two desks, built from a smaller 2x1 Kallax shelf (903.015.55) and a wooden board.
  • Above each desk there is even more shelf space, which is mounted in between the top of the "Kallax towers" and the wall on either side: another wooden board, cut to the appropriate size, white.
  • As we go further and further upwards, my ideas are less and less concrete. I can imagine different configurations going upwards.
  • On top of both 4x1 Kallax towers, there could be yet another pair of 2x1 Kallax-es, to really get the most of the room height.

My current plan, the construction in detail:

  • The main hurdle is the almost 2m long space between the two "towers". I'd like to have my record collection on there, so the load will be heavy to very heavy. Obviously, this means I need to get a strong wood: I was thinking oak, larch or beech (?)
  • But buying strong, expensive wood only helps me so much. I can't just mount an oak board to the wall and the Kallax towers with a couple of brackets and screws, and hope for the best...
  • [fig. 2.] This is why I want to make two half lap joints at each end, and lock them together with the desk shelves.
  • So my idea is to make one 5m long board out of three smaller ones:
151x39 cm: (length of desk + length of Kallax tower) x (width of Kallax)
A second 151x39 for the other side
280x39 cm: (length of Kallax-es on either side + distance between them)
  • I have access to basic machinery to make the lap joints, I also want to invest in some hand tools to make this. I've always wanted to do this, and it seems doable (???), if I make two or three practice joints before ruining a €200 piece of oak
  • The 5m long board will then be secured to the Kallax towers with screws, and supported on the back wall with an angle profile, as well as mounted on the side walls with brackets.
  • Obviously, to support most of the weight, the Kallax towers will need to be bombproof, mounted to the thick, brick walls with strong dowels.
  • [fig. 3] I have a baseboard (ca. 6,2 cm high and 1,7 cm wide) that I need to build around. I want the Kallax towers to be flush with the wall, so I'll screw some feet to the bottom of the towers.
  • In the section above, I wrote that I would maybe want to set another 2x1 Kallax on top of the 4x1, constructing an epic 6x1 tower of biblical proportions. This would have the added benefit of securing this 5m long board even more (I think...?)
  • Then, I'd have just under a meter left to go to the ceiling. Here, at the top, one could store things needed very rarely, or have plants... See the next section for ideas like that.
  • [fig. 4] Short point on the desks: the whole of the Kallax series is 39cm deep. That's a bit narrow for a desk. That's why I'll cut wood to the size of 110x60 cm. The small, 2x1 Kallax acts as one of the legs, while the other corners are supported by wall brackets. This means, that the desks protrude further into the room at 60cm, while the rest of the construction is narrower by 21cm. This also means, that there will be a small space inbetween the 2x1 Kallax (desk), the back wall, and the 4x1 Kallax (tower). That space (ca. 0,7mΒ²) can be used for various storage needs.

My current plan, design and decor:

  • I made a couple of sketches of how things could look like, and I'd also love to hear your ideas.
  • [fig. 5 & 9] Let's start with the centrepiece: I was toying with the idea of getting a projector/screen instead of a TV. The screen could be mounted in between the Kallax towers, and the projector on the other side of the room above the couch. This could leave the central area much more open. Then you could have – for example – an old, broken CRT TV as decoration; or a statue, some type of artwork on the wall; three potted plants, etc ..... For now, I've decided to scrap this idea, and I felt like I could come back to it at a later point if I feel like it. The TV will obviously be mounted on a swivel. The back wall should be decorated/painted/wallpapered in some way, I just don't want to have it white. I've always wanted an LP stand, to get a "Playing right now: ..."-effect. I feel like this space is almost like a small window, it could be made into a cute niche with the right decor and the right lighting. Speaking of, I'm very open towards the lighting situation, since I don't know anything about that and have no clear vision of what I want it to look like; maybe also IKEA (Dirigera, 105.034.06)? Furthermore, I'm pretty set on having LPs as well as A/V equipment in the TV sideboard.
  • [fig. 6 & 7] Next, the desks: my partner and I are both use laptops. The external screens will be mounted on swivels, and the desks will get retractable trays for keyboard and mouse. Kallax inserts from IKEA (doors, drawers...) can be chosen as needed. Above the desks, as described in the previous section, there is a shelf. Here one could store folders with all sorts of important papers. Or a potted plant, whatever. Beneath this shelf, one could even install some sort of lightweight, hanging rack for stuff needed daily, or space for pens... The back wall of the desk is probably the most exciting part: Magnetic? "Letter rack" style? S-hook-system? Please share your experiences/thoughts/inspo!
  • [fig. 8] At the very top, above the centrepiece: I'm leaning towards plants and artwork. If you have cool ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Open questions at the end of all this:

I'd like to hear your general thoughts and concerns!
Which wood for the long 5m shelf? 
Lap joints as described above: yay or nay?
Lighting systems?
Back wall of desks?

THANK YOU <3

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My house was resided, and my city doesn't do inspections. I have concerns about workmanship.

I don't know the terms for the parts to look up everything individually.

Are there any good guides to installing metal siding.

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I'm looking to replace a panel of my computer mouse with a 3D printed part. I don't want to create a permanent bond (such that it can be changed out in the future), so I was considering something like rubber cement or silicone caulking to affix it. Thought I would check with those more knowledgeable as to the suitability of those options/suggestions for others.

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Not my pictures.

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Glued acrylic plates together with Acrifix and fixed them to a retractable shelf for our trash. The plates are attached with two screws and silicone caulk.

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Hello,

Beginner here. With writing this, I'm increasingly thinking I should hire a carpenter, lol. But I've been wanting to post this for months, so here it goes.

What do I want to build?

I want to build a desk/TV sideboard/shelf combo, that takes up the entire length of a 5-meter-long wall in my living room (see image).

  • There's the 'lower part': 60cm deep, 75cm high; two desks on either extremities (i.e. in the corners of the room), flanked by drawers and storage options for all matter of things. The centrepiece is the TV-sideboard, with cupboards for storage and an open solution for A/V devices.
  • Then there's the 'upper part': 40cm deep, 200cm high; this is like a shelf that sits on top of the 'lower part', but it is narrower by 20cm. This will be storage for books, records, work stuff, etc... I am not planning on having a back wall on the shelf.

What are the circumstances?

I live in a relatively small apartment (~ 40mΒ²) with my partner. The apartment is a pre-WW1 house, with a room height of 3,2m. The 5m wall is brick, and behind it starts the next house, so it's plenty thick. The living room itself is about 19mΒ².

My questions to the community

My main question is basically how?

  • Is it smarter to build the 'lower part' all in one first, then build the 'upper part' on top? Or is it better to build everything around the two L-shaped studs, that separate the desks from the TV? I imagine that the first option is easier to build, whereas the second option provides more stability.
  • What tools, screws, wall plugs and techniques would you use to build this? More specifically: how do I anchor things to the wall?
  • The material should be wood – but which one would be appropriate?
  • I have a couple of other questions, but I'll leave it at that for now...

Thank you so much for replying and taking an interest.

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We are going to Vietnam this year for holiday and I've read horror stories of poorly distilled alcohol in cocktails and such. Several tourists have died from methanol poisoning.

Would it be feasible to build a small detector for methanol? I'm okay with either a small chemical identification test or something like an IR spectrum analysis.

There are commercial test kits for professional laboratories but I need something affordable for regular consumers.

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Hey all,

I recently got some pictures to hang onto the wall of my apartment. While I was able to hang up four of the five so far despite some challenges (needing to get a nut driver to remove portions of the frames and using a command hook for one of the frames rather than strips due to the screws holding the frame together jutting out too much for it to sit flat on the wall with command strips), there's been one picture that I'm in a weird spot with.

Now the picture is clearly not original, it's very obvious that it's a printed reproduction. Regardless, I love the way the art looks, and want to hang it on the wall behind the couch. My issue is that the wooden frame is warped, and I'm a bit lost as to where to go forward with this. The piece I removed from the frame seems to indicate that it was meant to be hung using a nail in the wall, but being in an apartment that would go against my lease. The good news is that I almost certainly can use command strips to attach it to the wall, if only I can figure out how to fix the warping to lay it flat.

Looking online, it might be me using bad search terms, but I can only seem to find out information about what causes this to happen rather than information as to how to fix it. If at all possible I want to avoid reframing the picture since honestly that wouldn't be worth the hassle with how cheap the picture seems to be seeing that it's a reprint.

Thanks in advance!

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I got a canon pixma tr4520 from a technologically challenged relative, who told me they couldn't get it to print and it was mine to try and fix. I worked out that it didn't have an ink cartridge in it (not even an empty), bought a replacement, and got it printing. But now it has vertical alignment issues and paper jams. I can't afford a new printer right now, and I would love to fix this one. My fear is that I'll sink half the cost of a new one into it between the ink I already bought and replacement parts, just for it to come out not working anyway. Is it worth my time to try and fix or should I cut my losses and start saving for a new unit?

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I have an absolutely incredible set of moose hide trigger mits by Hides In Hand - a traditional leather crafter in Canada who use locally sourced hides.

I backcountry ski a lot and DESTROY gear. My hides in hand mits are the most durable and comfortable mits I've ever had. The issue is the acrylic fleece liners - I blow through them.

So I decided to make a set of sheepskin liners. I went to Bill Worb Furs - who source pelts from traditional hunters and trappers (read: mostly, but not all indigenous) and scored some hides.

I deconstructed the original liners, made a pattern and made these new liners. Cost me $30CAD and I have material for a couple more.

Totally pointless, could have bought replacements, but it was a super fun project for someone who has never made something like this before.

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Today is my Birthday πŸŽ‚πŸŽ‰πŸŽˆ. Happy 26th Birthday to me with two white hairs in my head🀩⭐. Am getting oldπŸ’”

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Today is my Birthday πŸŽ‚πŸŽ‰πŸŽˆ. Happy 26th Birthday to me with two white hairs in my head🀩⭐. Am getting oldπŸ’”

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Hello!

I plan to replace an electric vitroceramic cooktop for an induction one. Both are 60cm in width, but looking at their manuals, the current one specifies a cutout of 58cm while the new one says 56cm. Both specify the same height (49cm)

Now, thankfully I dont need to make the hole larger, but Im wondering if the extra 2cm will be a problem or not? The cooktop should cover the entire hole but Im not sure if it the extra space could allow it to move around. I'm hoping it would be ok (they tend to have an anti-slippery silicon thingy), but I prefer to ask if some has experience just in case.

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I'm hoping to have access to a laser cutter in the near future, but due to scheduling conflicts most likely won't be able to attend any hands-on instruction on how to use it. In lieu of that, I'm in search of any online resources on the general use of laser cutters. Is there anything out there that would be useful to a complete newb like myself?

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Made a book lamp (infosec.pub)
submitted 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) by threeduck@aussie.zone to c/diy@beehaw.org
 
 

Pieces required. Three books from a thrift store ($6) pretty books are everywhere it seems! Australian lamp fitting with switch from AliExpress ($11), 3w LED bulb from AliExpress ($14).

Things I needed to buy: 40mm drill bit to drill through the books to fit the lamp socket ($12). Clamps to hold the books down during surgery ($20 for two).

Things I already had: PVA glue to attach the books together and seal the pages. Drill and 8mm drill bit, to feed the wire though and out the back of the bottom book. Soldering iron, I had to break open the light switch and snip the wires off to feed JUST the power cable through the drill hole I'd made (power plug too big)

I'm no DIY expert, and this was a fairly easy project. No major hurdles, and it looks great on my homemade ladder shelf.

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.sdf.org/post/24957830

So I had a taillight bulb go out on me this week, and changing that bulb was simple enough, but also not particularly obvious. Had to look it up and could only find a overly long winded youtube video on it. In the interest of saving some one else the headache of scrubbing through a 20 min video to get answer that could have been explained in 2 minute short, I figured I would write it out.

Tools and Parts list

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • 8mm deepwell socket or wrench (A standard socket might work, but a baby socket won't. Long bolts.)
  • Replacement bulb
    • The red brake and taillight bulb is a white 7443 bulb. )
    • The turn signal bulb is an amber 7440A
    • The reverse light is a 921

Instructions:

1.) Open the trunk. (Yes, I'm a smart ass :-D )
2.) On the rear (driver's perspective) corner of the trunk on the side with the blown bulb, look for a removable plastic rivet. Place under the center part of the rivet, a flathead screwdriver and lever the center part up, then pull the rivet out. If you try to remove the rivet before poping the center part up you will break the rivet.
3.) Pull the carpet to the side to reveal where the back of the tail light assembly should be. You will find 2 long bolts secured with 8mm nuts.
4.) Remove the 8mm nuts.
5.) Applying rearward pressure to the exposed bolts and the outside of the assembly, remove the assembly. It slides off to the rear, not the side. This will take a bit for force, but not much. Be careful not to damage the tail light assembly or damage the wiring harness. The wiring harness has roughly 8 inches of play.
6.) You now have access to the bulb holders for the tail/brake light, turn signal, and reverse light. The bulb holders twist loose and it shouldn't take much force. The bulbs themselves are a friction fit into the bulb holders.
7.) Reverse these steps to reassemble.

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submitted 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) by Binzy_Boi@feddit.online to c/diy@beehaw.org
 
 

Hey all,

My friends and I have an inside joke that involves cinderblocks that has been a few years old now. There's a house under renovations across the street from where I live, and I asked the people doing the renovations if I would be able to have a cinderblock I saw on the front lawn, to which they said I could! (for context, the house hasn't been sold yet and they were getting rid of them anyway.)

I am literally doing nothing with this cinderblock other than having it as a decorative piece in my apartment for the joke. I have put the cinderblock in my bathtub and sprayed off most of the dirt on the surface, but I was curious as to how I would clean it to get it looking more or less good as new.

Thanks in advance, I'm really excited over this stupid thing lol

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Hi all,

Recently got myself a popcorn maker from the thrift shop that unfortunately refused to work. Wanted to try and get it operating as it should again, but it seems the issue wasn't so much something being broken in the machine, but rather extremely cheap build quality.

Repairing the thing just didn't seem worth it, so I disassembled it and am recycling the individual parts. However, I am thinking about making a toolbox so that I can learn some repairs and all, and am hoping to save the screws that I've salvaged from the machine.

My question is this. How does one sort and categorize the screws they keep? Are there codes the screws have, or does it come down to personally measuring and determining the length and type of screwdriver needed for them? Currently just keeping them in a sandwich bag for the time being.

Thanks for any help in advance.

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Me challenging myself to purely purchase second-hand goods has once again hit a bump in the road with my recent purchase of a bookshelf at the thrift shop.

The bookshelf itself is fine, it looks nice, it was cheap at $25 CAD, and doesn't seem to have any damage to it. However, what wasn't advertised was the fact that the three shelving pieces taped together that rested on top of the shelve in the middle, uhhh, didn't have the holes drilled in yet that would allow for me to attach them to the rest of the unit.

Everything is perfectly fine save for that, so I don't want to toss the bookshelf entirely. If I wanted to prepare the shelving pieces myself to hang them into the adjustable holes, how would I do so? What tools would I need? Since I've never done anything like this before, would this be a good starter project, or should I have someone more experienced do it for me?

Thanks for any help in advance.

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cross-posted from: https://lemmings.world/post/11714128

I tried to make a phone "wallet" case. I used the inside of my old one (what you press your phone into), cardboard from a an old box and some leftover vinyl flooring. I originally wanted to glue everything but ended up stapling some bits. these pics where hastily made and don't do the thing justice. Let's see how well this holds up (I seldom have it in my pocket so that helps).

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I have an overhead light in my bedroom that I absolutely despise. It's way too bright and it's right behind my phone/book/whatever when I'm lying in bed. We have other lights around the room, and so I'd like to replace it with someone else. I don't really want a ceiling fan there, but that's the only thing I can think of. Does anyone have suggestions of something fun to put in the center of a bedroom ceiling?

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cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/11339091

My bathroom tub fixtures have seen better days. Pretty sure they're original to the house (~60 years). We have fairly hard water, and the prior owners were not the best at maintenance so no clue how long these slow leaks have been going on. But the shower handle is stuck hard on the valve, and the bath spigot is crumbling away and similarly fused in place. Hot and cold come off easily.

Does anyone have any tips for freeing the one handle and spigot? I've tried light tapping with a mallet on the back of the handle to no avail. The spigot seems bound pretty tightly, to the point where I'm concerned about damaging the pipe if I apply too much torque.

As for the leaks, I haven't decided if I'm going to just replace the valves, or try fiddling with/replacing the packing nuts. This is my first time messing with plumbing, but either way seems straightforward enough after watching a few videos.

Any tips/tricks/suggestions appreciated, thanks!

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