Personal Finance

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I was never a fan of the subscriptions model (I have never had a Spotify, Netflix, or any other similar services).

My girlfriend that used to make fun of me is now considering cutting some of those costs.

What is your stance on this?

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Feel free to share, ask questions or advice on any financial matter.

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Asking the question as it seems to be a recurrent issue among finance-aware people.

Also if people have tips to save money on eating out or cooking, feel free to share!

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Hi, Personal Finance. I'm a relative novice to investing, but have thrown some money into the market pretty regularly since last year. Before that, I had really only put money in on a handful of occasions, whenever I had money I felt would be better invested than spent. My portfolio is just around $30k, and I'm investing money every month in order to ensure I'm dollar cost averaging whatever isn't doing so well but has promise, and throwing more into the things that are doing well. In addition, I'm also reinvesting my dividends and not selling anything I hold.

That said, I got pretty lucky over the last few years and found a few ETFs and stocks that have since taken off because I happened to invest at a few key points when the market was at its lowest (boy do I wish I had put more in). I wish I could say it's because I know what I'm doing, but I just see it as really good, accidental timing. I've got some stocks and ETFs that I bought because of good dividends, and others that I bought because of a potential upside in the future.

I've found myself continually adjusting the dividend side of my portfolio, but doing nothing with the growth stocks and ETFs that took off. I feel like I should continue to invest in those, beyond dividend reinvestment, but seem to have a mental block because the price per share is so drastically different than when I first bought. Do any of you struggle with this? How do you get over it? What's a good way to keep investing without just chasing success like a drug? Four items in my portfolio account for 74% of my growth portfolio value, despite only making up 39% of my total growth portfolio shares. I'm torn on whether to invest more in what's working, or leaving those alone and continuing to diversify.

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So i got into a disagreement with ChatGPT about whether you earn more interest overall if you contribute daily rather than monthly, if the overall contribution over 1 year is the same.

I made CGPT write some python code to prove it. His code is on the left. I still didnt believe him so I wrote my own, on the right.

Our results seem to disagree, so Im asking you guys, if your interest is calculated daily and paid monthly, is it better to contribute $143 per day for 365 days, or $4349.58 monthly for 12 months?

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Vehicles under $15k are 1.6% of the market, and their share of the market has dropped over 90% since 2019. The old advice that you can get a beater and drive it in to the ground for $5k hasn't been true for years but it still seems pervasive in personal finance spaces.

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Came across this tool on HackerNews last week and gave it a try and thought it was a really comprehensive (in my experience) tool for doing long term financial planning yourself.

It costs money, but you can even self host it for a certain price tier.

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About a year ago I hired a financial planner to manage assets in my retirement accounts but am starting to think about doing it myself.

I don't disagree with the general approach they're taking, but it seems like it should be simple enough for me to do myself every 6 months or whatever.

The gist of the strategy is a balance across large/mid/small cap and sectors at certain percents along with some % of bond funds and some real estate funds.

I think my main questions are how do I identify and compare various funds that fall into these broad categories to try and pick the ones I want to actually invest in.

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After years of Mint I’ve decided to look for other options. Im considering doing it myself in a spreadsheet but before I go that route (not ideal) I thought I’d see if anyone had recommendations on good basic family-budget apps. Would be great if it could link with bank accounts but I’m open to anything at this point.

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by jimmydoreisalefty@lemmus.org to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml
 
 

About is not up to date, for pf, need age brackets and all the other wikis

Are Mods going to update or wait to make new ones, once peeps start flooding in over the years?

Edit: typos

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cross-posted from: https://lemmus.org/post/167976

Do you think that the AI bubble will pop? Is entering the stock market dangerous right now?

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Gross domestic product was expected to increase at a 2% annualized pace in the second quarter.

In the face of persistent calls for a recession, the economy showed surprising resilience despite a series of Federal Reserve interest rate increases that most Wall Street economists and even those at the central bank expect to cause a contraction.

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Is there a general rule of thumb on student loan interest rates and whether or not it's better to pay off ASAP vs invest in an index fund? Sold a lot of company stock from an ESPP and RSU program that happens to be the value of our household's student loan debt that is just entering repayment after graduation. Can't tell if a 5 or 6% is worth drawing out or paying off in one go. Not worried about rainy day or emergency fund and already maxing out my retirement. So really it's a question of debt payoff or non retirement investment.

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The quarter percentage point increase will bring the fed funds rate to a target range of 5.25%-5.5%.

During a news conference, Chairman Jerome Powell said inflation has moderated somewhat since the middle of last year, but hitting the Fed’s 2% target “has a long way to go.” Still, he seemed to leave room to potentially hold rates steady at the Fed’s next meeting in September.

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I have a comprehensive financial plan and look to have up to 48k in about one years time saved. With 16k on hand after paying off my student loans this October which will likely start the one year plan.

I want to use the money to put 20% down on a house (plus have an emergency fund)

Outside of say a high interest savings account such as Ally, is there anything else I can do with the money I have on hand now, or is that the best option?

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/r/personalfinance was one of my more frequented subreddits and I find it pretty valuable. I figure I should try to help get the ball rolling over in the Fediverse and it seems like this is the most active substitute so far.

The "rule" as it were is that to have income in retirement broadly in line with your income before retirement, you need to hit 1x your salary by 30, 2x your salary by 35, 3x by 40, etc. This rule works well for people who 1) start working at 25 and 2) do not experience significant pay raises, as either of those things will set you significantly behind.

Ultimately I use this as a target for what my 401k contribution should be, since I'm already maxing a Roth IRA each year and my company match is fairly low so maxing that is easy. But I definitely can't afford to max the 401k, so I use this to help gauge where I really ought to be in between those bounds.

The way I calculate the target for a year is just sum up my gross income from paychecks for that year. This means it includes salary and bonus but not RSUs. The stocks are too volatile to make the accounting easy, and thus far haven't been a significant fraction of my income. Then, multiply by the factor for the age I turn in that year. It looks like this:

Tax Year Age (Nov) Gross salary+bonus Multiplier Target Actual Miss%
2018 27 $36.4k 0.4x $14.6k $2.6k -82%
2019 28 $70.4k 0.6x $42.2k $9.7k -77%
2020 29 $76.1k 0.8x $60.9k $20.3k -67%
2021 30 $81.9k 1.0x $81.9k $42.0k -49%
2022 31 $92.0k 1.2x $110.3k $47.3k -57%
2023 32 $100k? 1.4x $140k? $80k? ???

2023 of course are estimates, I won't know those real numbers until ~mid November. "Actual" is the reported balance of my Roth + 401k in Fidelity at the end of the first trading day in November.

A few explanatory features. I started my current job in 2018 but only worked about half that year. I only had a tiny rolled over 401k from a job in grad school. So I've had both reasonably large raises and obviously started super late (even for someone who went to grad school - but hey at least I got in-state tuition!).

It looks like I'm not doing too hot. I started late, wasn't contributing enough in 2018 and 2019 clearly, in 2020 I was saving for a house and finally got serious about contributing in 2020/2021. Maxed a Roth for the first time in 2021. If 2022 hadn't been so astonishingly terrible in the stock market I'd have been steadily gaining ground the entire time though. Now I'm contributing about 21% of my income and since the market is doing better this year I'm back to gaining ground again. I like the rule, even in my "worst case scenario" because it's fairly aggressive and keeps my from spending too frivolously.

So do you use the rule? How closely do you track it? Are you gaining or losing ground? How close to retirement are you?

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Edit: Silly me. Set the price options properly and it already does!

===

Hello, Does anyone here using Gnucash know how I can take unrealised gains in to account on the net worth linechart?

I know I can manually add an account for unrealised gains and track that way but for assets like stocks that fluctuate over time, id rather not manually enter a price every time.. especially given Gnucash has the data from the price database.

There are other reports like the advance portfolio which calculate this so is there a way to show this data in the net worth chart?

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I've heard this is a good way to set your kid up for success and take advantage of compounding. One of the parts I always get caught up on when looking into it, is that your kid needs some form of taxable income, and whatever they contribute, you can match it.

If you have a child that is just a couple years old, how do you accomplish this? I can't just say I pay her $3000 a year for picking a book to read each night..or can I?

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Like Peter Lynch says, invest in what you know. It would be cool if your round-up could buy a fractional share of whatever business you shopped at. If that company isn't publicly traded, you could set a stock for it to default to.

So if I go to Chipotle, my round-up goes to a fractional share of Chipotle. If I go to my favorite local hole in the wall, my round-up would go to a fractional share of $SPY or whatever I set my default to.

I know Cash App and the Robinhood Cash Card both have round-ups to buy stock, but they only buy one stock. Anyone know a card that's more inline with what I want?

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Do you track your expenses monthly? Annually? Do you have an app or do you use an excel spreadsheet? Any suggested tools?

I use a spreadsheet and track monthly.

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I live with my parents so I don't pay rent or buy groceries right now. As far as I can tell there is no way to convert the gift cards into money (into my bank account). I can't add them to Amazon or PayPal or use them to pay off any debt.

Is my only option to literally keep track of how much is left on these gift cards everytime I go out? I have like $550 in gift cards from work that I have received over the last 2 years and never used.

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Hey all. My employer offers many stock benefits through RSU, ESPP, and options. I try to max out my ESPP and as a result my non retirement holdings are heavily skewed towards my employer's stock. I'm trying to diversify and not worry about timing the market, but what do I need to consider when it comes to timing sales of the stock to avoid wash sales? Currently we are down from the highs a 2 years ago. Should I worry about wash sales relative to timing of various acquisition dates? What am I losing by making a wash sale? Thanks.

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by HHwwhat@vlemmy.net to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml
 
 

Anyone out there actively shopping for mortgages/homes in the US? What are you getting for a rate as of late? How's it going? We are shopping for homes so we haven't locked a rate. It's insane out there. We've only put an offer on one house (tons of crap out there right now) but were beat out by a cash offer with inspection waived. Even if we do end up getting a home I'm worried we're going to be one layoff away from losing it.

We've owned our current home and remodeled the kitchen and bathroom but due to its size it hasn't appreciated as much as other houses on the market. Buying a bigger home seems like a worse idea by the day with the high rates and low inventory. I kind of wish we would have bought too much house when we bought the first time instead of buying a starter home.

Edit: I'll add our budget and income and you all can tell me if I'm worrying for no reason:

Combined income: $245k
Emergency fund: $40k
Debts: $1150 car payments
Large monthly: $1800 daycare

Max budget: $650k Down payment (all equity likely): $130k

We'll be using some of our savings and a 401k loan for the down payment and then recasting the mortgage/paying off the 401k loan after the sale of our other home.

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Can’t credit the OP at this time, unfortunately. Still trying to navigate lemmy on mobile.

“I got looped into a thread about medical collections that started with a very inaccurate "tip," and saw that there was a FREAKING TON of misinformation floating around about what to do when you have medical debt. So I thought I'd share the knowledge that I have on the topic from a few years as a trainer in a medical billing & collections agency. Disclaimer: I worked for one agency that had multiple sites nationwide in the US. I am not a lawyer, I am NOT giving legal advice. I am just sharing what I know from a few years in the industry including a competitor study that we did to find out how our competitors handle the same situations. I will not share the name of the company I worked for; they were most definitely shady in some areas and I am not looking to dox myself either. If anyone has more knowledge than me on the topic, please chime in. I am also not looking for a "Healthcare in the US is broken" because yeah no shit Sherlock; this isn't the thread where we can fix that. Oh also I will swear sometimes in this post. If you have medical debt, these tips may help you to negotiate down or get the debt written off, or to ignore bad advice from people telling you to do something that could have negative repercussions. I'll say "hospitals" below but this encompasses all medical providers as far as my experience goes. OVERVIEW OF HOW THE INDUSTRY WORKS: Your debt goes in stages: Early Out - debt is still owned and usually managed by hospital; may be outsourced to an agency. This is the stage where they can fix any insurance issues as well so call as soon as you get the bill before it goes into collections! They're nice when it's still in Early Out; they have to be aggressive when it goes into collections. Some hospitals send their bills from EO to Bad Debt in 30 days; some wait years. So call right away when you get a bill because there's no way to know their timeline. Oftentimes if the amount is low, they will just write it off or take a small payment in the EBO stage. They will work with you. Once it hits Bad Debt aka Collections, the options can be limited. Additionally, the GENERAL rule in health insurance is that you have to resolve the claim within 1 year. Medicaid/Medicare/Tricare had different rules, but in general - getting your insurance to pay after 1 year is not going to happen. CALL WHEN YOU GET THE BILL! Bad Debt Contractors - still owned by hospital but using collection agency for the work Bad Debt Purchasers - sold off to very aggressive collection agency who has little hope to recover the debt. There are 2 types of med collection agencies - I don't know if there's an official term for each type, but I'll make up my own. Contract - the kind that I worked for, that has an active contract with the hospital and gets a small % of the collected amount. And Purchasers - the kind that purchases the debts in bulk at a discount and tries to recoup that money and more from you. Facilities usually go through Contract agencies before Purchaser agencies. COMMON MISCONCEPTIONS: MISCONCEPTION #1: Your medical debt cannot go to collections because it's medical debt. --> Yeah, right. I wish this was true. However, without the collections world, hospitals would close - so it's a reality with our current healthcare system. Know that if you were insured and didn't pay your portion, or if you didn't have insurance AND didn't attempt to get state coverage that would cover those bills, OR were turned down for state insurance....the debt usually lies on your shoulders. They can reduce it, do payment plans, etc. but they can absolutely put you in collections for your car accident, and they will often be forced to do so. MISCONCEPTION #2: Medical debt cannot have any long-lasting affects on my credit or property. --> Falsity false, boys. It sure can. The only reason a hospital may not choose to report to the credit bureaus, seize property, or go after your income is usually because it makes them look bad to the community and it's expensive to do the above. But they can and do report to credit if they choose to. Oftentimes it's the last resort after a certain time frame, but "Sir, this can affect your credit score if not paid" can be the last option they can use in order to get payment from repeat offenders or low-income areas where the hospital faces a risk of closing if old debts aren't resolved - hospitals have bills to pay too, y'all. At my facility less than 10% of our providers reported to credit, but many still did and it's common. MISCONCEPTION #3: Just telling the agency that you want an itemized bill will close out the debt. --> Oh god, false but COMMONLY spread misconception. Per FDCPA (Fair Debt Collection Practices Act), it has to pause the collection process (stopping it from reporting to credit & stopping phone calls while they order it from the hospital), but that may be all it does. Once the IB is sent, collection can continue. On rare occasion, the hospital pulls up the IB and sees it was mis-billed or the insurance coding was wrong - but they don't go actively looking for problems at this stage, so don't expect that to happen just from your collection agent asking Sally Receptionist at XYZ Hospital to kick out an IB. You should have called sooner to get this resolved. If it's a low amount, (for us $50 to $100 or less), it wasn't worth the admin cost of requesting an IB. If it was over that amount, we'd always send it if we couldn't convince the client to pay in installments. It's worth the postage and admin costs to get hundreds of dollars in payments. You should know, though, that collection agencies ARE required to send you proof of the debt if you ask, and this is law per FDCPA. However, the statement that the collection agency sends technically counts as your 'proof of debt' because it will contain the date of service, provider name, facility name, and amount. It won't list out each service that was done. But the letter is technically enough to count as proof of debt. That's not as good as the IB so you should push for the IB. They don't want to spend the $ on postage so they will try to avoid sending ANYTHING, but push for it! MISCONCEPTION #4: Admitting the debt is yours means they've got you! Hanging up on them stops the process! --> removed, please. They know it's yours; they have your address and social security number and they got in touch with you today, didn't they? The only thing you're doing by acknowledging the debt, is confirming that they got the right John Smith on the line. But they pay for skip tracing systems and can and will find you, at every address you register to, and they can call your family as well at least once to get a better address or phone number for you. We paid a team of people minimum wage to sit and skip trace people all day, 40 hours a week. They can find you. They will find you. MISCONCEPTION #5: Sending an IB is a violation of my HIPAA rights or Collection agencies collecting on medical debt are violating my HIPAA rights! Tell them that you didn't authorize them to collect the debt, and they're violating your HIPAA rights, and you get off free! --> Shut your stupid mouth. Every provider in the USA is required to have you sign something called a Notice of Privacy Practices. You prob signed your NPP in the giant packet before your first appointment. That NPP has very intentional language that lets them use any biller that they choose, and they are permitted per federal law (both FDCPA and HIPAA) to see the bare minimum of your medical info from the appointment in order to collect. They're not violating that law because they can be fined tens of thousands of dollars per violation. Trust me, the paperwork is ironclad. And if my company was any indication of the industry, most of our hospitals did NOT share the reason for the visit, diagnosis, etc. because that was not needed info for collections. We could infer the reason if say it was a labor and delivery provider, but we didn't know why you went. MISCONCEPTION #6: My medical debt has no real consequences on me if I ignore it long enough. --> Eh, maybe. If that hospital does not report to credit, and the second agency does not report to credit, and the agencies that buy the debt off don't report to credit, then yes - you may not have your credit score affected. There's no way of knowing what agencies they use and what future policies they may follow when it comes to reporting to credit, though. My agency could legally tell you no, we don't report to credit on THIS account, if we didn't. But then we'd give the account back at 90 days, or 1 year, or whatever, and then the hospital would switch the debt over to our competitor for 1 year, and those bastards did report. So don't assume it will never report. Additionally you can be prevented from using that office in the future if you have outstanding bills. Some of our providers even allowed us to garnish wages. MISCONCEPTION #7: Telling them to stop calling me stops all collections for this bill! --> Telling them to stop contacting you stops them from contacting you. If you say stop calling you, they cannot call you ever again. If you say stop calling this #, they can never call that # again. If you say stop contacting me, they cannot call, write, show up, send smoke signals, use a voodoo doll, etc. This is per FDCPA and you can sue them for literally thousands of dollars if they violate this so go for it! But - just because they can't call/write/etc you, that doesn't stop credit reporting, wage garnishments, etc. if those are in the pipeline of the debt. It also legally prevents them from reaching out to you to let you know if they are offering a deal (we offered huge discounts during tax season, for example), it stops them from letting you know if you have future additional bills. Basically you're cutting off your nose to spite your face. Now, if you know 100% beyond a shadow of a doubt that this bill and all future bills for this hospital will not ever hit your credit report, or if you have a 300 credit score and plan to live in your mom's car forever, then go for it. But again, you may also be prevented from seeing doctors as part of this facility's network forever as a result. (The ER is required to take you regardless of your payment history; nobody else is). MISCONCEPTION #8: They are asking for my information when they call me; that must be fraud! --> In medical collections, they are bound by HIPAA in addition to FDCPA. They are allowed to ask for your name and give you the address they have on file to see if it's you. They are NOT allowed to mention that they're calling about a medical bill, details on the appointment reasons, or amount until they have confirmed your identity. They cannot tell your family member anything unless it's your legal spouse who verifies your info. ID verification varies but typically it's name/address/year of birth. The agency's lawyer may not be okay with them reading off your YOB so they may ask you to confirm what's on their screen. It seems shady, for sure. But it's for your protection. You can never be too careful. Ask for them to send a letter. Get company name. Ask them what their letter envelope looks like - the FDCPA makes it illegal for the letter to state "collections" on the outside of the envelope (for your protection) so it may look like junkmail that you threw out; they have to keep the envelope relatively generic. Ask for the rep's name. Ask to call back in and talk to someone else. Tell them you don't know if they're legit. If they are legit, they'll direct you to a website, a phone # for call-in, they'll resend a letter if you tell them you'll pay, etc. Look up reviews for the agency. But, be aware that the ignorance around collections is widespread and 99% of the bad reviews are going to be people who think it's a scam. That's the nature of collections. But they should be legitimate. They should have a web presence. They should have ads on indeed and other websites to hire people (Collection agents turn over more often than a sex worker in a threesome with one really tall man and one short fat man). MISCONCEPTION #9: If you tell them you have a lawyer, the call is over and collection efforts stop! --> Maaaaybe. We asked for the lawyer's contact info, advised the consumer to have their lawyer contact us, and immediately stopped all communication to the client and reached out to the lawyer. That stopped all calls and letters and stopped any credit reporting. That being said, if no lawyer contacted us after a certain amount of time, it could begin reporting again in the future. So it's not foolproof. If the lawyer you gave us confirmed that they do NOT represent you, we could legally reopen. If you hung up after saying you have a lawyer, we were stuck waiting to hear from them and if you were lying, well... we're not going to call back...but that doesn't always stop the process. I don't know the time frame on that because I wasn't in the Legal dept, but there was definitely a limit to how long we waited before reporting to credit. LIES COLLECTION AGENTS TELL YOU: You have to go through us to pay this debt. This may not be true, if the debt exists back in the Contracted stage. The hospital MAY still talk to you about this debt if you call them directly. It's always worth a try. They tell you to go through them because they want their commission if you pay. I cannot take less than $x per month for this bill. Nah fam, that agent is simply not going to hit their monthly bonus if they let everyone pay $25 per month on a massive bill. Their boss is going to mad if they take a low payment amount on a big debt. But they absolutely can take your payment of whatever amount you'd like. That being said, it doesn't automatically stop it from reporting to credit just because you're making payments. When you set up a payment plan, ask if it stops the credit reporting process just in case. "This is a binding contract; if you miss any payments on this payment arrangement, the balance in full is due." Bro, the balance in full is already OVERdue....you're in collections. Like, duh. They are just trying to lock you in to the payment arrangement. Now if you do miss a payment, it can instantly report to credit - so don't miss a payment. But don't think that your $5000 debt that you agreed to pay out at $200/month is suddenly going to go back up to $5000 due tomorrow if you miss a payment. You already owe $5000. They can and will set up your payment arrangement again. Just call them and ask them to move the date if you need to; they're more than happy to do it. Especially since the new collector could get the credit for the new payment arrangement which goes toward their bonus - hooray for them. MAGIC WORD: I DISPUTE the validity of this debt. Oh hell yes, use this phrase. It stops all collection efforts, stops credit reporting, and basically creates a full system shutdown on this debt. The agency should ask the reason for the dispute, but you do not have to provide it. They will then kick out an itemized bill to prove the validity of the debt. However - oftentimes if there was a dispute, we just closed out the debt altogether and were done, with zero negative consequences. I used to teach my agents how to tell the difference between a real dispute vs. a fake dispute, but in reality if the D-word is said, it's a dispute. Good, valid, morally and ethically positive reasons to dispute a debt: I didn't receive that service, the appointment was canceled, I never got a bill in the first place, someone else was supposed to pay (divorce or car accident), identify fraud, I was injured during this procedure. Bullshit reasons to dispute: The doctor was mean, I'm racist and the doctor was X ethnicity, I don't want to pay, my insurance should have paid this. But again if you say DISPUTE - they can ask more questions to see if it's a real dispute, but ultimately you CAN sue them if you tell them you're disputing it and they don't immediately pause reporting to credit while they investigate. THINGS YOU CAN THEORETICALLY SUE THE AGENCY OVER: -If you say dispute and they don't stop credit reporting to investigate - HUGE no-no; report per FDCPA. -If they give out your health information to someone who was not confirmed to be you, per their verification process. HUGE no-no; report per HIPAA. -If they say it's a debt before confirming it's you that they have on the line - FDCPA violation, do not pass go. What to do on every medical collections call: -Get the name of the agency and the representative you're speaking with; write down date and time. This may be needed in the future if they break FDCPA or HIPAA; it can also help with disputes or conversations with management later on. -Ask as many questions as you need to in order to help you learn if it's a valid debt. When was this, who was the provider, how much was my original bill, what insurance did you bill to, do I have additional bills in your system? -Ask what happened with your insurance. How much did my insurance pay, did they say why this amount was left over? -Call your insurance to see what happened if the agency isn't clear. There is a possibility that it can be re-billed even after it's in Bad Debt. -Be friendly and polite. Agents have a good bit of freedom to grant discounts and set up comfortable payment plans, and they'll only use those kindnesses if you're not a douche. Also, they're humans too, probably making $2 above minimum wage, and the job is really tough because people are mean and have heartbreaking stories. Be human. It helps.”

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