Fiber parallel to CAT6
this post was submitted on 04 Dec 2023
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Home Automation
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Power shades are solar now. I didn’t use the wire I ran
I'm doing something similar but price IS an object. I'm not using Cat5e. I'm using Cat6.
Cat6 almost as profligate as power outlets: bedside, at A/V locations, homerun to a low-voltage closet.
HDMI to A/V locations.
In-wall speakers and a central audio system if you're so inclined. That may also call for additional Cat5 (e.g. Russound)
I'd have cable trays all through the attic and walls with access panels over them. Central mechanical room with all the network hardware and a rack. Future proofs in the event that cat5/6 goes obsolete in the future. Shelves for APs in the attic where needed.
One suggestion I haven’t seen is a 30 Amp outlet for the location of your server/media room. Most of the good UPS brands have moved to NEMA L5-30 (120v) or L6-30 (240v) for their higher-end lines. Have your contractor run a single 10/3 Romex to that room and wire it for 120v by essentially just caping the extra conductor in the panel and box so that you can change over to 240, in the future, if needed.
neutral wires to the light switches! (oh, and CAT 6 out of every orifice)
Low Voltage Cable Runs:
Skip the Cat 5e. Go with Cat 6. Run at least 2 lines per box. Where you will have a TV or media center run 4-6 lines. To future proof. Place a line to anywhere you may want a camera in the future. Also factor in some ceiling boxes with Cat 6 in centralized locations if you ever go to a system that will use ceiling mounted access points for use with Ubiquity or other access points. Even if you don't terminate the runs make sure they are marked on both ends, so you know which cable is what for future termination.
I coax Av’s 3 cat 6 to each tv drop
The proce difference between cat6 and cat5e is something like $20 a spool. Just use cat6, it'll afford ypu more flexibility in the future.
Not sure if mentioned yet. If possible, decide how you want to install security cameras around the house, both exterior and interior. Wired is way better than solar or battery.
Cat7 and LC fiber. If all the runs are under 30m you can use cat8. I wouldn't bother with 5e on a new build.
Put a switch in your garage for the front soffits if you might want holiday or decorative lights.
Put power in the attic for OTA TV antenna and maybe even AM/FM radio antenna. Run cabling for them to each of the rooms you might want those services.
Power outlets in your exterior eaves/porch (if you have one). I’m having to consider how to add for holiday lights.
Do at least 16/2 to the speakers.. .cat6 to ceilings for WAPs
If money isn't object, why not Cat8? My cisco cert is out of date by about 10 years.
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Cat6 if not 6a minimum instead of 5e.
There are lots of posts about this same question.
If money was no object I’d just have a company come install it all and leave an extra Smurf.
You should talk to Cyberdyne Systems. I hear they have a great T unit.
Consider running additional cable for the lights to allow for 0-10V dimming. This will provide superior dimming performance. Ra2 Select can support 0-10V dimming.
Seconding most of what's being said.
Cat 5a is not worth the cost savings vs 6a at this point.
6a to ceiling in strategic locations for wireless access points.
Fiber to every room.
I'd run the smurf to the corner of the room most likely to house a TV or computer.
Depending on your tech use, a separate 20 amp circuit to your main server/network hardware location.
Take pictures of all of it before the drywall goes up. Make an album on paper to pass along to future owners.
The one area that I'm not seeing mentioned is outside. Think about landscape lighting (front and back), sprinkler control, wiring for a driveway sensor, mailbox sensor, gate sensor, etc.
You may also want to think about wiring for the holidays, especially if you ever plan to do a light show and want addressable LEDs, permanent tracks along the eaves, projector(s), power/wiring for a mega tree and other props, etc.
Wire for where you are putting tv on walls. Take into consideration HDMI connections. Where (if) you iron. Might want a raised plug. Lights in closets. Multiple plugs by bed for night tables and all the stuff we plug in. Love the Lutron app. My Motorized blinds are not direct wired just have to be recharged once in a while.
If I had it to do over, I would put 2 Ethernet drops on every wall of living space but the bathrooms. And pull strings in every drop. (Conduit to hard ones) You will want a "computer room" for the network stuff, but also NAS, DVR, smart home hub, and more as the needs grow. Dedicated circuit an a place to mound a business class rack mount UPS. (2200 or better) And speaking of power, you should add more than you need. And leave room for monitoring it in the box. If your panel is in the garage, a shelf for another switch may be handy. I have a switch in my house, my detached garage, and my shed...
fiber optic hdmi 2.1 cables. You can have one pc/console or whatever connected to all your tvs.
Do you have a multi room speaker setup already, maybe wireless through sonos, homepods or similar? If you do and never use the multiroom feature, then wiring up for speakers in each room will be similarly unused IMO.
If you are considering a pool, most automation controller have Ethernet port; so I would plan a run where equipment pad would go. Good time to plan outlets for your landscape transformers on smart switches too.
Doorbell nowadays can be hardwired with POE; so plan for Ethernet wire instead of traditional 2 wire.
Not wire specific but now is also a good time for a central vacuum with tubing that feed back into the wall (chameleon or hide-a-hose).
I'd do 14/2 instead of 18 personally. Don't skimp on the conduit!
Cat6a is reasonably priced. But you can run 10Gb on cat5e if needed in future.
I’d probably run some internal fibre for networking servers etc.
Probably hardwire zigbee into all light switches and see if there is a way to have energy monitoring (normally WiFi) on ALL power sockets!
These are great responses so I'll answer in a different way.
found I can do a lot with wifi. My biggest limiter in my few houses has all been power. I would put power in stupid places. Inside cabinets to charge things. Inside closets for things like steam wands. Next to toliets for heated seats/bidets. Under eaves of both stories for holiday lights or future jellyfish. Trenched power in the backyard for an amazing experience. On top of the fireplace mantel. Dedicated 20amp circuit for a home rack. In a dedicated kitchen appliance cubby for your blender/kitchenaid. On the wall where a TV will go. In the perfect spot for a robot vacuum.
I ran power for blinds and that’s been incredible. I also wired up all the doors (edit: with door sensors like these), inside and out (didn’t do all the interior doors, wish I did now).
Wish I had ran wiring to corners of rooms to put mmWave sensors in.
Did data everywhere, wish I had done more to my desk in the office and more to the outside soffit corners of the house to put multiple cameras in. Also wish I had ran one to the doorbell.
If I could have figured out window sensors that would have been sweet. I love that almost everything is hardwired, the smart locks are battery powered and it feels like I’m changing batteries all the time.
Don’t prewire, run blue Carlton conduit (aka “Smurf tube”) instead. Then you can pull whatever whenever and can change it as needed.
I would run cables for contact to inside doors as well. I use sensors on closet doors, laundry room etc and get so tired of changing batteries! If they were wired I could just sense open close from something.
Agreed with others having one place all cables are run to (Ethernet, contact etc) makes management much easier. But label label label
Run conduit if you do cat5e so it can be replaced in 20 years easily.
can you run cat5/low power to exterior for security cameras?
flood/motion lights outside?
EV charging - run 6/3 to a box in your garage - omit the outlet if you like, or put a NEMA 14-50 in there. Then, regardless of what EV you pick it would work. (Although there's a 99% chance NACS will win).
Run wiring for generator / Power wall before drywall goes in.
Is your kitchen propane or induction? need 240v here.
Run 240v/120v to basement for second washer/dryer set. (We put our old ones in basement, and wash dirty/muddy/clothes/dog beds/etc.). Then the other set is on 2nd floor.
you can NEVER have enough outlets in kitchen/office areas. Bedrooms too. Wife ran a space heater and iron, and pop goes the breaker. Run multiple home runs.
120v in wall heaters in bathrooms are P I M P.
In floor heating wiring?
If I was building new. I'd have a minisplit cassette style in every bedroom - set any temp you want! or close off rooms not in use.
home theater rooms - speaker wire runs.
Fancy lighting power runs.
man all this adds up fast $$ good luck!
400 amp service for sure! twin 200 amp panels.
Ev chargers
I have found that many homes wired to code fail to have outlets, etc. located where they are most useful. It used to be that you had to have an outlet within 3 feet of a door and every 10 feet after that. Too many outlets end up behind the middle of the couch or bed and not in the best place for access after furniture is in place. Do your best to envision furniture and countertops and their placement and use. Both ends of the couch, both sides of a bed, etc.. Also, don't put too many outlets on an single circuit in a kitchen or shop area.
Our place is only 2200sq ft on one level. The only thing I’m struggling with is speakers for the lounge / kitchen as it’s vaulted. But here’s my list which is the same as everyone else’s:
- cat6a to each room, specific rooms have more.
- 24U rack in mechanical room for patch panel, switch, fibre modem, NVR, etc.
- Cat6 drops to each location of security cameras
- 3 cat6 drops for APs including one at the back of the house/back yard for external
- Lutron Caseta switches
- Cat6 to front door for doorbell
- all exterior lighting switch on wife’s side of bed
- flush outlets on backsplash
- 200A panel in house, 200A in garage.
- conduit from mechanical room to front and rear property lines for electrical and cat6. Think Christmas lights around the yard etc.
- soffit receptacles even tho below
- soffit LEDs programmable
- 14/4 to windows for alarm
- 14/2 to windows for blinds
Premise: Whatever wire/fiber/romex you pull today will be obsolete tomorrow. Premise: Price no object (right?) Then: Conduit (spacious conduit) to every wall and space (e.g. attic), all home-run to a utility center in the basement or at least to distribution spaces on each floor, then a large trunk conduit to a central place.
That way, whatever you pull today, you can later pull it out, add more and/or upgrade without having to adapt old cable to new signaling.
This is the answer. Low voltage conduit to the attic from everywhere so if you have to change something later it’s really easy. When you put the cat 6 in it now, put a fish too.