Clacksmith

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A place for all things about dice making. Ask questions, get advice, show off your creations!

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I’ve started work on the project that got me into dice making in the first place. My friend Dom died earlier this year and his wife asked my to use his ashes in a set of memorial dice. We talked about it for a bit and settled on several things.I am making her a very large die, 100mm, that will encase a few small personal items of his, a 60mm die for his ex who was still very involved in his life, and several sets of standard dice for them to use. All of them will incorporate his ashes in some way. I’m also printing an insert for the 100mm die to make a base that his personal items will rest on.

This is my first test print for the 60mm die and there are some issues I have addressed for the second print which, barring any issues will be the one I polish and use for the mold.

I learned a lot since we decided on this memorial project and one of those things was CURE INHIBITION. For that reason, the mold will be tin cure silicone instead of platinum cure when molding 3D printed dice. I will also need some deep pour resin to make the 100mm one.

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I dont always use UV reactive pigments but when I do I find out when Im curing the numbers 😵

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I've been making "stained glass" dice ever since I got blank inserts for my molds. The trick is to leave some panels clear so untinted light can show through.

This time I'm using some inserts from Druid Dice that have geometric patterns in them. I've painted the lines in silver and am using sharpie markers for the tiny panels.

I have found that, while it rarely happens, it is good to clear-coat these inserts to prevent any excess ink from coming off in the molds.

I will likely use a pearlescent white for the numbers, though may go for sage green if the white isn't readable.

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submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by WoolyNelson@lemmy.world to c/clacksmith@lemmy.world
 
 

On Reddit, I would bang on about under-coating numbers on clear or translucent dice to prevent "color bleed". This set was designed to use the effect in a positive way.

I cast a clear set of dice and first painted the numbers in ROYGBIV, starting with the d4. I then painter over all the colors with gold. I have polished the set to a matte finish to increase the effect.

Here is a close-up on the d6 to better show what's going on. clear, matte finish d6 with gold numbers but orange underneath the gold.

This will still darken a clear die, even if you use a bright silver or white, as it stops light from coming through those areas. I do find it preferable to color bleed, however.

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fresh from the pot and Im super happy with them.

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I wanted to try inverse clouds with black instead of white. It really muted the blue color and darkened them more than I expected. I don’t think they look bad but I’m kinda surprised at how much attention they are getting from people I show them to.

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Sadly it is just barely larger than my normal d6 insert.

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These were donated for a Child's Play auction. d20 with green scale pattern and white numbers.

To get the effect, start with an opaque blank insert (I find black works best). Have at hand a disposable spoon and a smal, sealable container with some dish soap and water you can agitate to make tons of bubbles.

Using an aplicator (I use a flat silicone brush), apply a very thin layer of UV resin. Use the spoon to scoop the soap bubbles onto the resin-coated surface. Quickly put it under a UV light to cure the resin. I clean any overspill with a craft blade to keep it neat.

Once all facets are done, brush the mica powder of your choice onto all the surfaces and cast in clear resin.

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Slimes come in all shapes and sizes, this group snuck into my bag and ate my dice :( well, I guess I can use them as long as they keep their shape and don’t eat my gold.

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This die came out so perfect but the resin held onto to much air so it pulled a void in the pressure pot. I’ve had a vacuum chamber for a while but have put off getting a pump to actually use it. This die convinced me to pull the trigger and I grabbed one from harbor freight. Going to use it on the silicone for the full mold of this set and then the resin for the pours. I’m excited to start making more dice from these masters.

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I used this mold to make a bunch of 55mm chonks before I tried something new and ended up taking a few chunks out of the inside. I spent the day yesterday cutting it into tiny pieces to use as filler in future molds.

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I posted here forever ago talking about my intention to make these, finally got off my ass and finished polishing and inking tonight.

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submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by WoolyNelson@lemmy.world to c/clacksmith@lemmy.world
 
 

I had to polish the dice myself (more involved than just zona). ETA: The site is jlcpcb.com

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First post here as an r/dicemaking refugee, glad this place has a similar community!

So I've got a friend who is both a standard nerd and is also deep into Harry Potter. I've had the idea to make them a set of four d20's, each with coloring and patterns appropriate to the Hogwarts Houses, and maybe make a wooden/3d printed stand to display them on.

The biggest problem I'm currently facing is how the heck to get a bronze color/effect for Ravenclaw out of ink and mica powder, but I'm also open to any other generic style ideas.

Thanks!

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Made a "Snow Globe" d20 (60mm chonk) for a friend's wedding.

I'm making a second chonk with a more detailed version of the mini as an inclusion.

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I managed to embed two 35mm scale figures inside without much issue. While I was letting bubbles shake out from the mold on my vibration table, I sacrificed an old brush to brush extra resin onto the models to prevent bubbles being stuck in the details.

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Just got new masters printed from my buddy.

All I have to do now is figure out how to make the mold. That d20 is going to give me fits.

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I got a buddy to print about 60-ish tiny (~15mm in length) swords for a Battlemaster Fighter dice set. I'm playing about with paint schemes and also testing density.

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Any suggestions on an easy way to get started? I'm not sure all the equipment I need and which is just nice to have, for example.

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It's incredibly rare that a set turns out exactly as intended, but it sometimes happens. Like this one - the intention was to make a set that looked like coffee, and that's just what we got!

Fittingly, this set was sold as a gift for a barista!

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So far, I've met a bunch of dicemakers and bought some beautiful dice.

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Made for a gnome artificer in my Spouse's game (it's online, but games need dice).

Angelina fibers in blank inserts covered in geometric pattern nail art stickers. Light blue shell with bright copper numbers (silver undercoat).

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