Personal Finance

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101
 
 

Me and my wife are in our 40s, and currently in good health. I get insurance through work, but it's a high deductible plan. I have enough in my health savings account to cover the out of pocket maximum for a few years.

Cancer does run in my family, so I was considering a cancer policy. My grandmother has one with Aflac, and she received a good payout when she was diagnosed with breast cancer. I have seen that she also only has to pay a few hundred dollars per year for her policy, which seems pretty reasonable.

However, I never really hear these policies discussed much online. Can it make financial sense to purchase? (And I guess I would keep paying it for the rest of my life) Or are these something that should be stayed away from?

102
 
 

How can I properly compare paying abroad with my own bank versus using Revolut for it?

For example, I know that I will spend 1500 euro worth of payments, mainly through physical card payments in stores, in the UK. I am from The Netherlands. My bank account is set in euro's and obviously in the UK it'll be paid in GBP.

Revolut should be a very good way to pay in foreign currencies but I am not able to determine what the difference would be. There is currency exchange rates, currency exchange fees, payment in foreign currency surcharge, perhaps Revolut subscription fees. Is this everything I need to take into account?

Revolut EUR-GBP exchange rate

ING GBP-EUR exchange rate

Revolut fees

ING fees

103
 
 

Is it safe to treat stocks and ETFs in my brokerage account as savings and emergency funds as long as I have a significant number of lots with a Stop Loss or Stop Limit Order in place? My Savings Account technically doesn't cover 3 months of expense, but combined with my brokerage account it does. Is it safe to be have 1 month in savings and 2 months in stock/ETF with stop loss orders in place that if exercised equate to 2 months of expenses?

104
21
YNAB vs Buckets (www.budgetwithbuckets.com)
 
 

I've been using You Need a Budget for family budgeting and I like it but it is expensive. I've played with Buckets a little bit and looks like a contender. Anyone move from YNAB to Buckets?

105
 
 

Home prices weakened month to month, according to Black Knight. While still gaining, which they usually do at this time of year, the gains fell below their 25-year average. This after significantly outdoing their historical averages from February through June. It’s a signal that a slowdown in prices may be underway again.

Behind the cooling off: mortgage rates. They rose sharply last summer and fall, causing prices to drop. They then came down for much of the winter and a bit of the spring, causing home prices to turn higher again. Now rates are back over 7% again, hitting 20-year-plus highs in August.

Add to that, new listings rose from July to August, atypical for that period of the year. Some sellers may be trying to cash in on these historically high prices. Active inventory, however, is about 48% below the levels seen from 2017 to 2019.

“While the uptick in new listings is good news for home shoppers, inventory remains persistently low, even with record-high mortgage rates putting a damper on demand,” said Danielle Hale, chief economist for Realtor.com.

The jump in home prices since the start of the Covid pandemic, combined with much higher mortgage rates has crushed affordability.

It now takes roughly 38% of the median household income to make the monthly payment on the median-priced home purchase, according to Black Knight. That makes homeownership the least affordable it’s been since 1984.

106
 
 

Where all my cash hoarders at and where do you park your savings?

Also, how do you decide how much cash to hold vs invest?

Personally I enrolled in Robinhood Gold for the 4.9% APY. It costs $5/month.

107
 
 

General financials:

I can afford to pay them off in full and have plenty left over for general life needs

The interest rates on them should be 4.53% according to their chart of when it was awarded.

If I do hold onto the money and pay off monthly I can put everything into a CD but I'll still be losing .03% if I lock in the student loan money maybe I'll beat but .07-.43% so not a ton of upside unless there's sudden political will to actually follow through on student loan forgiveness.

Is there anything else I'm missing when considering this? I am leaning towards just pay off as I've been planning for this, but I want to make sure there isn't something else to do.

108
 
 

Interest will start accruing again on September 1, after rates were effectively set to 0% since March 2020 for federal student loans. Now, interest rates, which are fixed and vary by loan, will return to the same rate they were before the freeze.

For most borrowers, the first payment will be due sometime in October – but not everyone has the exact same due date.

Borrowers can expect to receive their bill, listing their payment amount and due date, at least 21 days beforehand.

Generally, borrowers can expect their monthly payment to be the same as it was before the pandemic pause. Unless a borrower made optional payments or other changes to their account, like consolidating their loans, federal student loans were essentially frozen in time.

109
 
 

What are you invested in? Target date funds, ETFs, individual stocks? Do you think of your portfolio as aggressive, neutral, or conservative?

It occured to me the other day in a discussion about lifestyle creep that a lot of discussions about retirement assume you earn at the 10- or 20-year historical average returns of the S&P500, but it would be very unusual to be 100% in the S&P500 for your entire working life. So, the effect of small changes in cash infusions (i.e. splurging on large but infrequent purchases) is lessened when you consider that most people will be invested more conservatively and real returns will be lower.

So what do you have setup?

Currently about 70% of my retirement account value is in a 401k, which is 100% in FFLDX, a Fidelity target retirement 2055 fund. I'm not as pleased with the returns on this. It says I'm up 11% 1Y but I frankly don't believe it because it's worth barely more than the cash that's been put in to it in that time. Our fund picks for our 401k are kind of crap. The other 30% account value is in a Roth IRA, which I have distributed as:

55% FXAIX (FID S&P 500 ETF)

20% FSPSX (FID international ETF)

15% FSMAX (FID domestic whole market ETF)

10% FXNAX (FID bond ETF)

I would consider this overall rather neutral, maybe even conservative considering my age (31). What do you think?

110
 
 

Definitely a trend I see around me (Europe, 30 years old).

All of my friends able to buy got at least 30k - 50k from their parents.

Is it the same around you? How do you deal with this?

Also, some data from a few days back:

omg

https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/2426785?scrollToComments=true

111
 
 

I recently started giving plain text accounting a go. For a long time I did not do any accounting, as my income was high enough to get by perfectly fine, but recently I wanted to get a lot more control over my personal finance in order to easier achieve more long term financial goals.

I've only been at it for about a month now, and I started out with ledger. So far I am enjoying the concept, but have not made much out of reporting yet. But I like the idea of also building my own reporting in Python on top of existing reports, and checking out the ecosystem around this (I understand BeanCount has a large Python ecosystem, so I will probably check this out once I have some months of data).

Are there anyone here doing this? I would love to hear some perspectives about this, both good and bad, from people having used this for a long time.

112
 
 

I'm talking about types of accounts, automatic transfers, etc. Feel free to mention specifics, but I'm more interested in higher level information like does your paycheck go to savings or checking, do you use automatic transfers, do you use a traditional bank account or something different, etc.

Basically, what happens to your paycheck? Do you like your process, or are you considering making changes?

Here's mine:

I have five main accounts:

  • Fidelity Bloom Save and Spend for savings and spending respectively; each is a brokerage account
  • Fidelity Cash Management Account - mostly fit the fantastic debit card
  • Ally Checking and Savings

And here's the general flow of cash:

  1. Biweekly paycheck -> Fidelity Save
  2. Automatic transfer 2x/month from Fidelity Save -> Fidelity Spend
  3. Automatic transfers from Fidelity Spend -> Ally savings and personal spending accounts
  4. Automatic transfers from Ally savings to Ally checking; Ally checking is used for Target debit and automatic transfers to wife's IRA
  5. Manual transfers as needed to Fidelity Cash Management - I try to keep this near $0, and only transfer for travel or if I need to withdraw from an ATM

I have credit cards and other bills set to autopay in full from my Fidelity Spend account 2x/month (roughly even between the two halves of the month). I changed my credit card due dates to line everything up years ago, so now everything is pretty much automated.

I like this setup because:

  • brokerage has higher yielding money market funds
  • pretty much everything is automated
  • can have investments living next to spending money (e.g. my efund is Treasury bills, which live in my "savings")
  • I keep more sketchy account linkages at a separate institution from my main savings
  • I need a brokerage anyway for my HSA, and I'm considering moving my other retirement savings to Fidelity as well to further reduce institutions
  • Fidelity has better 2FA options than pretty much any other bank

I used to use Ally as my main account, but I switched to Fidelity late last year and I really like it so far. Some changes I'm planning to make:

  • get my hardware security token set up with Fidelity - I've been sitting on it for months, just need to make the call
  • move wife's autopay to pull from Fidelity directly; she's not on the account yet, so I need to fill out some forms
113
 
 

Many steps remain before older adults see the benefit of the Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services’ upcoming talks with drugmakers.

114
 
 

I am looking for a target-maturity bond ETF for UK Gilts but I couldn't find any by using an internet search engine. I would like something similar to iShares iBonds Dec 2033 Term Treasury ETF but for UK Gilts instead of US treasury bonds. Does such an ETF exist? If not, what are the practical alternatives for getting UK government bond exposure that have the following characteristics:

  • Easy for foreigners to purchase
  • Easy to liquidate
  • Has a fixed maturity date
  • Has a low minimum investment requirement (e.g. less than 1000 GBP).
115
 
 

This is technically a question specific to Canada but maybe it can be applied to other countries as well.

I have a fixed number of stocks in a regular investment account and in a Tax Free Savings Account (TFSA). For non-Canadians the TFSA is like a personal investment account except there is no capital gains tax. Last year I maxed out my contributions to my TFSA but I wanted to save more money so I put some funds into a personal investment account. This year due to the economy I can't save as much so I have extra contribution room in my TFSA. So my question is, should I just sell all my shares in my personal investment account, transfer the money to my TFSA account and buy the same stocks there? Are there any downsides to doing this?

116
 
 

At the end of 2022, I discovered this software that I've been using all year. I'd like to hear your thoughts or experiences with GnuCash, or whatever system/program you use to track your personal finances!

For the ones unfamiliar, it's based on a double-entry accounting system; every transaction always has at least two accounts involved. Example: if I spend 200 SEK on a restaurant, it goes from Assets:Cash to Expenses:Food.

Starting by creating my own accounts, it helped me immensely to have an overview of my general financial situation.

Around March, I found enlightening to re-define what expenses needed their own category from what I was unconsciously lumping into 'others'. Having it all already logged, made it quite easy . The caveat is that all the entries are manual, but my finances are not as complex, so with 30-45 minutes a week I have it updated.

You can even create diagrams for your monthly expenses, or general balance, among other reports that come quite handy if you want to run a query.

117
 
 

My family uses credit cards for all purchases and we pay them off in full each month. Although sometimes we'll use a 0% APR promotion for bigger purchases.

Which cards do you use for maximizing your rewards?

118
 
 

My family needs a second car. I'm thinking about a used Chevy Bolt or Nissan Leaf so I think the cost will be about $20,000.

What's a good source for financing? I was thinking about getting a loan from my bank, Chase. But I see there are also lenders that specialize in car loans, and there might be dealership options? My credit score is over 700.

119
 
 

Our (spouse and I) are in a few of these funds. Is there a retirement calculator that figures out projections of these always-adjusting funds?

The Fidelity "Monte Carlo" simulation seems to not adjust with them even though these funds do.

120
 
 

Intro

Some people use credit cards a ton, and others avoid it like the plague. There's a ton of conflicting advice in personal finance circles, from people like Dave Ramsey who advise to never use credit cards, others like The Money Guy recommends using credit cards responsibly, and then there's the churning community who tend to use credit cards a ton.

This post will go over how credit cards work, commmon benefits, and will conclude with general advice on what "use credit cards responsibly" means.

Statement cycles, grace period, and interest

Bank accounts usually operate on a monchly schedule, where you'll earn interest on the average balance throughout the month. Credit cards operate on a statement cycle.

Most credit cards use a month-long statement cycle, so your statements will close on about the same day each month, whereas some use a fixed number of days in the statement, so your statement cycle can "drift" month to month since months aren't the same length. The larger issuers tend to use a month duration, so your statement will usually close on the same day each month. Credit card payments are usually due a fixed number of days after the statement closes.

A statement cycle contains all of the transactions that happened during that time. The sum of all of these transactions is your statement balance, and after your statement cycle closes, your total balance (the number reported on the website) will include any transactions you made after the statement cycle closes.

Grace period

The time from the purchase to the due date after the next statement close is called the "grace period," which is the period where interest does not accrue. Here's a simple example:

  • statement opens on the 10th and closes on the 9th of the following month
  • payment is due 16 days after the statement close, so the 25th of the following month

Anything you buy from the 10th to 9th of the next month will be part of the same statement, and those purchases will not accrue any interest until after the payment due date, the 25th of the next month. So if you buy something on the 10th, you'll have 45 days to pay that back before that purchase starts accruing interest.

Minimum payment

Credit card companies require making at least the minimum payment every month in order to be on time. Usually this is the larger of a fixed amount (e.g. $50) and a percentage of the amount owed on the card (e.g. 1% + interest). If you make at least the minimum payment each month, your card will report to the credit bureaus that you paid your bill on time, which will help your credit score.

However, if you pay less than your statement balance, the remainder will start to accrue interest daily, and that interest will be added to the total for the next month's minimum payment.

Interest calculation

Let's say you have a credit card with these figures:

  • $50 minimum payment, or 1% of total balance + interest accrued, whichever is greater
  • 20% interest rate
  • $10k balance

Let's say you make the minimum payment. In this case, 1% of $10k is $100, so your minimum payment would be $100. Since no interest has accrued yet, all $100 of that payment would go toward the balance, and you'd start accruing interest immediately. The first day after your payment due date, you would accrue:

$9,900 * (20% / 365) = $5.42

The next day we add that interest to calculate the next day's interest, which is:

$9,905.42 * (20% / 365) = $5.43

And so on. If there are 30 days in the month, that's going to be $165.70 in interest added on to your balance, which is greater than your initial 1% minimum payment. Your next month's minimum payment will be even higher because you'll be required to pay the interest plus that 1% toward the debt, so the new payment will be ~$265.70.

Different credit cards have different rules for the minimum payment, but in most areas, credit card companies are required to have the minimum be high enough that if you stop making any more purchases, you'll eventually pay off the debt by making that minimum payment.

Avoiding interest

As long as you pay your complete statement balance by the due date every month, you will never pay any interest.

Most credit card companies offer autopay that lets you choose between the minimum payment, your statement balance, and your total balance. The total balance includes transactions in the next statement cycle, and you do not need to pay those until the next statement closes. Setting autopay to pay the statement balance is sufficient to avoid paying interest indefinitely, provided you always have enough money in the account used for autopay.

Common benefits/card features

Foreign transaction fees

Both debit and credit cards charge a fee for making purchases outside of your economic zone. In the US, that means any other country, whereas in Europe, purchases within the EU probably don't incur a foreign transaction fee.

Most travel cards have no foreign transaction fee, whereas most no-annual fee cards do charge that foreign transaction fee.

Just note that this depends on where the payment was processed, not where the purchaser is, so purchasing from some websites can incur a foreign transaction fee (i.e. I get charged one for purchases at Fanatical.com, despite prices being listed in USD).

These fees are usually a separate line item in your statement, so you can check if a fee was charged.

Extended warranty

Many cards will offer to extend the manufacturer's warranty if you make the purchase with the credit card. For example, the Costco Visa credit card extends any warranty by 1 year, so if the device within a year after the manufacturer's warranty expires, you can submit a claim and the credit card company will reimburse you for the cost of the purchase according to their terms.

Rental insurance

If you book a rental car with the credit card, the credit card can serve as auto insurance, meaning you can avoid getting the insurance through the rental company. This benefit seems to be disappearing, and the terms can be a bit nuanced, so definitely read up on the details if you are considering relying on your credit card's rental insurance.

Price protection

If the price of a product drops within some window of time after purchase, your credit card company may reimburse you the difference. They usually require you to go through the merchant first if the merchant also offers similar protection.

Fraud protection

All credit card companies offer robust fraud protection where you are not liable for any unauthorized purchases. Some fraud department can be more difficult to work with than others, but in general, credit card fraud departments resolve cases faster than checking/savings accounts.

Impact on credit score

This certainly can vary by country and perhaps credit bureau, but in general, only the following impact your credit score:

  • on-time, late, and missed payments
  • age of accounts
  • number of accounts (more is better)
  • percentage of credit limit used

Whether you pay interest does not impact your credit score in any way.

Getting a new credit card will hurt in two ways:

  • adds an inquiry to your credit; hit is small until you have multiple (i.e. >2 and you'll get bigger hits)
  • adds a new, young account, which reduces the average age of your accounts

Those impacts usually go away in 6-24 months, depending on the rest of your credit profile.

General advice

Assuming you're responsible, in rough order of importance:

  • never spend more than you have available in your bank account (i.e. treat it like a debit card)
  • pay statement balance on time every month
  • keep your oldest card open
  • have at least two credit cards
  • increase credit limit until your regular spending is a small percent of total limit

I shoot for keeping my credit utilization under 30% for any individual card, and under 10% across all cards. This seems to

If you have a history of being irresponsible with credit, or you think you may misuse it, it's not worth getting a credit card. You can instead use a secured card, or perhaps a charge card, since both will prevent your from getting into trouble with carrying a balance, while still reporting to the credit bureaus.

Conclusion

Credit cards can be an incredibly useful tool, provided you're responsible with them. Read up on the benefits for cards you have, and consider choosing new cards based on benefits you want and need.

121
 
 

A buddy of mine told me about Wealthfront recently and they’re 5% money market account rates.

Growing up in a world where savings accounts and even CDs never approached more than 2%, the rates on this new thing blew me away.

Free money is great, and I’d love to take advantage of these rates, but the only cash I have currently is the emergency fund I’m trying to build.

Anyone have thoughts on if putting an efund in this kind of service is a bad idea? Not sure if it’ll be liquid enough if a major expense comes up.

122
123
 
 

Hello everyone,

As you all know, /r/PersonalFinance is 99% of people asking questions on how to deal with a specific personal financial issue.

We currently don't have this kind of people here for the moment. I saw someone the other day in !relationship_advice@lemmy.world on a relationship/finance issue that could have posted here, but in the end I guess they got their advise there.

We are getting more and more traction (42th most active community this week on this listing that excludes LW for technical reasons: https://lemmyverse.net/communities?order=active).

Feel free to ask advice if you need any, the community seems more than happy to help.

In the meantime, I'm going to post still another article about GenZ and trading.

124
 
 

Legislation known as the Credit Card Competition Act, first introduced in Congress in 2022, is described by its sponsors as encouraging “competition in electronic credit transactions.” But if lawmakers end up passing the measure, opponents say it could also torpedo the rich rewards and perks that cardholders have enjoyed for years.

“Will consumers lose? Probably,” wrote Brian Riley, director of the credit advisory service at Mercator Advisory Group, in an August 2022 post to the Mercator blog. “Their reward programs will dry up, just as they did with debit cards.”

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