this post was submitted on 24 Jun 2025
7 points (88.9% liked)
Switch Pirates - A community of pirates, FOR pirates.
1764 readers
1 users here now
Get information on everything revolving around piracy on the Nintendo Switch - apps, games, development, and support.
That being said, if you enjoy a game and you have sufficient money, consider supporting the developers by buying it.
Rules:
- Be nice and respectful to community members
- Content must be related to Switch hacking or piracy.
- No low-effort posts
- Do not spam
Resources:
founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
view the rest of the comments
The metal shield maybe? There's probably a word for it but I mean the bit the white arrow is pointing. The board in this picture isn't the same board, but I'm not able to grab a picture of the board in question at the moment. I can reply with a picture of the board & solder once I'm able to grab one. I am using flux, I just hadn't mentioned it. I did try heating it up with a hot air gun since I have a two in one rework station but that didn't seem to do the trick. I'm guessing I wasn't applying sufficient heat for long enough.
Thanks for the pic! That helps visualize the situation for me. Unfortunately, I can't be much more of a help.
Getting a sense of how hot to get everything with air is a dark art. I can only say that it's needs to be below the solder melting point and too hot to touch any part of the component.
On top of the shield sinking heat, the board is likely using silver-based solder, which also requires high heat. (Flux would have a dual role in cleaning the area and also flowing some heat around the solder joint a hair more efficiently.)
If it were my equipment, I would YOLO the iron temps and experiment with contact timing to get the factory solder melted enough to flow in some lead/tin solder. My tolerance for damaging my own stuff is super high though. (Brute-forcing as much heat on a small area before it gets the chance to dissipate is the logic here.)
Practice makes perfect. If you have an old wifi/Bluetooth device you can risk destroying, it might have shields you can practice removing or soldering around. (Noise sensitive audio components are something else that might use shields as well.)