Sun is on, water temp allows swimming 20mn without a suit, 30 asses fighting for the same peak, all frustrated for not having surfed for months. Recognized 5 locals only in the bunch.
Shit season is on, waves are becoming crap, tourists are crowding the spot, can't wait for September. Or at least July/August when waves are even worst but at least beginner surfers are not the assholes spring surfers are.
This is a world event in Abu Dhabi, in a wave pool where the whole reading of the wave is not applicable anymore and they're just cruising jet skis to get back and forth.
It just gives the feeling of having sailing competition where boats are allowed to have a motor to help upwind.
First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.
Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.
Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.
Just finished this one, can strongly recommend it. (Others are Barbarian days and Wingnut's complete surfing).
From ancient Peru to tow-in, from Hawaiian finless to channeled shortboards, from Duke Kahanamoku to Lane Beachley, from army cutoffs to Quicksilver, stomp parties to world cup events, this book covers everything surf until the 2010s.
A rather easy read, provides the needed dose when too sick to surf.
Comme mon pseudo l'indique, je suis un male cis hétero qui fait des sports de brute viriliste.
Ceci dit, j'ai un cerveau des sentiment et énormément de respect. Donc mon premier poste est lié à la découverte. Il y a 5 minutes d'un film dont j'ai hâte qu'il sort et soit disponible, Sur la vie d'une femme ex leadeur mondiale d'un des sports les plus virilistes dans un des pays les plus toutphobes.
First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.
Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.
Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.
First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.
Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.
Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.
Doors are already wooden