Taleya

This is a dividing wall between what's gonna be a home brewery and the subfloor - what would be a good way to block off the top of this wall?

Not worried about ventilation, this part will obviously have a lot of extraction, and the rest of the underhouse has its own vents and is pulled through the garage via a subfloor fan (plus there's a doorway out of shot). This is more to mitigate migration of dust and shizz.

We're running a mix of zigbee/matter as the network's been building out, but we're needing to expand both into the subfloor and basement brewery. Looking at possibly needing a hub to extend the signal (yay 60's brick and lead paint), anyone have any recs for Australia? I'm looking chiefly at Dialed In and while Tuya have several models they've rather shat the bed for me with their practises so eyeing off alternates.

Please excuse the mess, literally halfway through cleaning and repointing

This is the basement brewery, where the new sink will go - the upper section is going to be clad in upvc cleat wall over the sink, the bottom meter or so - well this is the question.

We want to clad it over, what would be the best material? Blueboard? Villa? Cement sheeting? Preferably paintable as the sink is an industrial open base, so we're planning on running exposed copper over it. What size airgap would be needed over the brick? Standard 25mm?

We really don't want this wall exposed, every other wall down there is brick anyway so fuckit.

Anyone in AU managed to mesh a code legal external smart socket with HA? Recommendations?

We've got a shitload of wall to repoint on removing the old paint, and I'm pondering a mortar gun. Anyone used one? Worth it, or more hassle than they're worth?

Hi all. I got the tank overflow conundrum sorted, complete with a three way tap so I can run overflow to the gutter or to a storage bin to track to other tanks. Lotta swearing, handful of dodgy chinese parts and a lotta fun

Of course me being me I couldn't fckin stop there, and have built in a float system, so if the bin hits capacity it automatically diverts everything else to the stormwater - but I'm not too happy with the flow through the float. It's definitely limiting.

Anyone rec a wide bore low pressure float? There's like,maybe half a bar of pressure on this thing, so it really needs to be something that's gonna let everything through until it bobs up and shuts off.

current one in use

Working on the never-ending basement brewery and we have this: old piping installation holes, leading into the kitchen above.

That grey subfloor is asbestos hardiboard. We are going to eventually redo the kitchen - just not this year (priorities, man!) what would be the best way to cover this from the basement side? gut says just gluepaint to encapsulate and a piece of ply to hide the holes, sound idea?

Edit: ok cos there seems to be repeated confusion: These are holes in the CEILING of a basement brewery leading to the asbestos floored kitchen ABOVE.

Ok chucklefucks i hope you like homebrew!

We currently have a set of maze tanks down the side of the house. They fill up pretty rapidly, so when we're looking at good rainfall i swap the overflow out to an old greywater wheeliebin to pump to other tanks / use in garden. You can see the temp setup from yesterday's rain - the flow to stormwater is on the right, the temp plugged vinidex to the bin on the left

I'm looking to make this process easier than plugging/unplugging plumbing, so was planning on putting in a T with the side to an outlet I can clip an18mm hose onto for the bin, and the down with a ball valve underneath (then leading to the stormwater to cut over to binfill vs stormwater as opposed to my current screw/unscrew/can't curve the poly that much so it takes up half the pathway. Simples, yes?

But then i had An Idea. The top links between the tanks are a PITA. Always dribbling, don't feed through very much, would be a gigantic pain to redo as they're very tight and the bottom link is cemented...so what if i tied in the bottom link (white pipe at the bottom left) at a slightly lower height than that top overflow, which would stop the top links hitting regular capacity, but be able to use them during high flood.

So: standpipe from bottom linking pipe to tie into the top overflow, then work in a tee and a valve so I can cut over the flow from stormwater to bin....workable?

cross-posted from: https://aussie.zone/post/15458542

I made a spreadsheet on info and pricing for every mobile plan in Australia (that I could find)

Made a spreadsheet of mobile plan data so people could compare providers and plans easily. I plan to update it either yearly or every 6 months. This was inspired by this spreadsheet on all the NBN plan pricing information: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_wnaTFb_3QsdgZfKDrEO6D_Rpzt2clbB/edit?gid=1523306688#gid=1523306688

In just over two years, their small Hamilton-based business, Sustainable Plastic Solutions, has reclaimed 3,000 tonnes of plastic and has created a world-leading closed-loop circular economy for grain tarpaulins.

They've just received a federal grant for matched funding of $9 million that will expand their operations to 16,000 tonne capacity per year and should enable them to tackle the so-far-unsolvable problem of recycling silage wrap.

But in the beginning, it was all financed by local farmers.

ok, so looking to get a rotary hammer drill. SDS / chuck, I don't care, can kinda go either way with corded/cordless - would prefer the latter, but well aware you lose balls with a battery.

I've been eyeing off the Ryobi HP brushless SDS (RSDS18X) but I think it's mostly the shiny factor and the fact we're already in the ecosystem - which I can happily toss in a bin if something better and cheaper comes along. It is the upper limit of the budget though, so call that a benchmark. Yes I will be shopping at the big green shed.

I already have two standard drills, an impact driver and a hammer drill, so as you can imagine the rotary will be used for situations where I am Done Asking Politely (and I have a lot of concrete I shall be negotiating with)

REC ME O WISE ONES