With downforce cars in general you can start with very high brake pressures, but have to lift off as the downforce decreases.
Wow, I never thought of it that way but now that you say it it makes complete sense why things feel the way they do. Thanks. I will give this another try hopefully before the 30th.
I feel like I'm at the point where I don't know what I don't know, but I feel like I'm having trouble braking in this car. I either over do it and lock up, or I miss the apex. Sometimes I do get it right though and it feels great, so I imagine I just need more practice. Thanks for the encouraging words!
I just find it the easiest sim to just get in and drive
I actually mentioned this as the main reason I like AMS2 in my steam review of the game. Like, seriously why does it seem like it's so hard to make a game where you can start it, pick a car and track, and drive. I don't wanna click through 100 menus and watch flybys of all the badly animated spectators, I just want to drive.... (Looking at you... Dirt Rally 2.0)
I recently switched to sway and I use xeyes to "look" for applications that are not running natively. The eyes only look at applications running in xwayland when you mouse over them since they can only track the cursor there.
Do they send them, or do they provide you with a website where they are hosted? I once worked around this by guessing the url scheme used by the hosting provider which something like <url>/images/size-4080x3072-<UID>.jpg. The UID was the same for the previews and for the larger sizes. It turned out that the larger sizes were not actually previews but the raw image data provided in a link to you when you pay.
They are good enough for me is I think the best answer I can give for that. There is some flex in the plate but that's mostly a design issue with this particular wheel stand. I'm relatively tall and have pretty long legs so to mount the plate in a comfortable position I have to mount it backwards and all the way back. This means there's a lot of overhang where the pedals are mounted. I've thought about fixing this by welding up a support bracket to go between the pedal plate and the base structure. It hasn't bothered me enough to actually walk out to the garage and do it though.
I also run the softest rubber in them and replaced one section of the rubber with a valve spring from a 1991 Ford Escort. I experimented with various combinations of rubber and other materials and this was what ended up feeling the most like my actual car (which is not a 1991 Ford Escort).
So to sum it up, they are fine in my opinion, but I also don't make the brake as stiff as a brick wall like some people do, so it's possible the rig matters more if you like that.
Here's a picture:
EDIT: I just tightened that jam nut... didn't realize it was loose until I looked at this picture.
EDIT2: Here's the configuration, nothing special. Just in case that's what you meant by setup:
I tuned the "catch point" for the clutch in the EEPROM so I didn't have to do it in every game.
Thanks for all that you do!
UPDATE 7:17 UTC Root cause was identified a while ago.
Does this mean federation is turned back on? I just tried to comment on a post on lemmy.ml and things appear to still not be syncing.
AC works fine with a very small amount of effort for me. I found https://gist.github.com/tim-gromeyer/2fbce4609f7d6d330e81504bcea70546 to be helpful.
Dirt3 is going to be difficult. There was a lul in game development for steam based games around this time. Ferral was trying to make native ports (dirt rally) and also trying to make working proton ports but it was very early on in that effort. It resulted in a lot of games which "worked" when they were released with a bunch of hacks to get them working, followed by zero maintenance releases causing all those hacks to fail when Linux and supporting libraries were updated. No one was interested in fixing dependencies so some of these ports are unplayable now.
If you are interested in the dirt series and rally racing Dirt Rally 2.0 is worth the money in my opinion and works very well on linux.
My experience with arcade style games such as Forza Horizon 4 is that they don't handle input devices very well. Even in windows I believe you need software which emulates a G29 or something to get real sim racing hardware like separate wheel+pedal+handbrake usb devices working. I've had issues in carx drift that were similar but those were solvable.
My biggest trouble has been pedal support as my pedals are a standalone usb device with only 3 axes. protopedal and xboxdrv both can help workaround these.
Wheel support is hit or miss and you should be very careful what you buy right now. Have a look at the oversteer readme. There is a list of known drivers for various wheels. The logitec wheels, with the exception of their new DD wheel, are all in-tree and well supported without extra work. Other things like certain Fanatec and Thrustmaster models have their own community based reverse engineered drivers provided as loadable modules. And some things like higher end hardware, simucube, moza, etc. have zero support and FFB will not work.
My last piece of advice is: use gamescope. Especially if you are on wayland. It makes everything a million times easier and more stable.
Feel free to ask questions, most days I feel like playing with games to get them running on Linux is my actual hobby, and not playing the games.... =]
If only the Shinobi and Shura were bluetooth.... They aren't QMK or hotswap though...
I currently use one of these (not mechanical) for my couch needs but would love to see a more open mechanical version. I have a tex yoda II that I use at my desk.
Anyway I realize none of these things are even close to what you want... sorry I don't have any better suggestions.
Answered! I've historically leaned pretty heavily into rally sims but I'm trying to gain some road racing experience too with mostly ACC, AC, and AMS2.
I think I'm going to get the base RF2 game next and try it with my rig. Seems popular here but according to protondb it requires some fiddling to get inputs and FFB working.