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First router project. My family had a trivet like this when I was growing up, and I wanted to recreate it. Made from a scrap end of an oak board.

One of the channels on the bottom has a little deviation but otherwise they came out pretty much straight. And there's a fair amount of burning on the sides. I was moving very slowly at full depth, so I wouldn't have to try to get to the exact same endpoint multiple times at different depths. Curious if that's a likely source of burn and what a better way would be; it's not really a problem on the oak but would be on lighter wood (and I have an ash scrap waiting to be v2).

I started with a practice on a plywood scrap.

The jig mostly just holds it in place, with a fence along the back and 1", 2" and 3" spacers (then flip it around to work in from the other side).

For the real thing, I cut it out first on a bandsaw circle jig. That left a pinhole in the center, still slightly visible after a sawdust + glue patch, but it's on the bottom. Placing a channel in the center could avoid that.

After all the criss-cross cuts (routes?) I used a 1/4" roundover. The set of the bandsaw left the outside a little rough, so I'd probably smooth that out before doing the roundover next time.

Finally, 80 + 150 + 200 with the orbital sander (just holding the trivet in my hand to do the edge and rounded corner), and butcher block finish.

I'd been following instructions to take stand 2 and put it between 3 and 4 etc, and I could execute the steps but not understand what was happening.

But this finally clicked for me, hope it helps others. (1) Twist the two center stands. (2) Twist the two outer stands, but (3) lay them down overlapping the center two, so the new center stands are one from the first twist and one from the second twist.

Came with an L bracket I was using to put planters on a fence.

Boston May Day 2025: Workers Should Have Power, Not The Billionaires!

Thursday, May 1 5:30 – 7:30pm EDT

Parkman Bandstand 139 Tremont St

Bottom shelf is right over the light bulb, so that one was way over proofed and deflated further when I brushed on the egg wash.

They both tasted good, and actually the flat one makes for nice breakfast sandwiches. At least the better proofed one was also my better plait!

Jewish students chained themselves to gates at Columbia University Wednesday in support of Mahmoud Khalil, the former Columbia student protest leader now in an ICE jail in Louisiana. On March 8th, federal agents detained Khalil at his university-owned apartment building, even though he’s a legal permanent resident of the United States. They revoked his green card.

I'm not sure if it's a tad dry, or if that's just how challah works, this is only my second attempt. Still tasty though!

I used the America's Test Kitchen recipe which calls for an internal temperature of 195F after 35-40 minutes, but I got to about 210F at 30 minutes.

Cabinet details cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/27518175

Plywood for the main box (3/4" sides, 1/4" back, rabbet and dado joints). Cut the door 1" too narrow so I added a handle from cedar scrap. Shelves and sheet pan brackets are reclaimed bed slats, planed. Window hole is routed with plexiglass insert, my first time doing any significant router work.

The brackets for the baking sheet have a cutout to accommodate two bowls. My goal was either two bowls or two baking sheets.

An obvious improvement would be to install an under-counter outlet so the cord is less prominent.

Heating is from a 45W incandescent bulb (which was the hardest part to find). It's in the top of an old desk lamp. Adding an 8x8" pan of hot water kept the humidity high so I didn't have to cover the rising bread. Temperature/humidity logging is from an SHT30 (plus two DS18B20s) running Tasmota and reportig to HomeAssistant, viewed in Grafana. I expected to have to cycle the light, but just keeping it always on seems to give me the right temperature range.

Plywood for the main box (3/4" sides, 1/4" back, rabbet and dado joints). Cut the door 1" too narrow so I added a handle from cedar scrap. Shelves and sheet pan brackets are reclaimed bed slats, planed. Window hole is routed with plexiglass insert, my first time doing any significant router work.

First bake came out well:

The brackets for the baking sheet have a cutout to accommodate two bowls. My goal was either two bowls or two baking sheets.

An obvious improvement would be to install an under-counter outlet so the cord is less prominent.

Heating is from a 45W incandescent bulb (which was the hardest part to find). It's in the top of an old desk lamp. Adding an 8x8" pan of hot water kept the humidity high so I didn't have to cover the rising bread. Temperature/humidity logging is from an SHT30 (plus two DS18B20s) running Tasmota and reportig to HomeAssistant, viewed in Grafana. I expected to have to cycle the light, but just keeping it always on seems to give me the right temperature range.

My house was previously multiple units, and has nice sounding chime doorbell for two floors. I've set up a relay board so family members can ring one or the other bell from HomeAssistant. If someone comes to the front door, I'd like them to press a button to ring both.

Obviously I can use a smart button and a simple automation to trigger two relays. But is there some way I'm overlooking to have a dumb, standard wired doorbell button that will ring both chimes without causing either relay to also ring both?

Maybe there's a DPST weatherproof push button out there that would look nice on the wall?

Harbinger just builds the chassis. Everything on top comes from somewhere else.

"Most medium-duty vehicles are built by one company building the chassis [and] another company installing the body," Weicker said. "So this made the perfect sense for our first product because we're going to be focused almost entirely on the differentiated aspects. We don't have to deal with the high capital investments for body in white, paint shop, [and] a lot of the things that have cost EV startups lots of money just to get to a table-stakes position with their incoming competitors."

"Where we're pricing the vehicles, we need that 45 W if we want to undercut diesel, and that's what we're doing," Harris said. "With 45 W, we can undercut the typical diesel vehicle by a few thousand dollars."

But even if that credit goes away under the current administration, Harbinger has some price flexibility to remain competitive, he added.

That's doubly true if you factor in operating costs. Harris says the average cost to operate a medium-duty vehicle like this is $0.50 per mile for fuel, or $0.85 if you factor in all costs relating to the vehicle itself. Harbinger is aiming to halve that, targeting $0.40 per mile. But, Harris says, Harbinger doesn't need to lean on that total cost of ownership (TCO) logic.