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There's one question that stumps North Korean fake workers | "How fat is Kim Jong Un?"
(www.theregister.com)
If they own houses that is public info.
The manufacturer web site is almost unusable and doesn't have an ordering button. There's a "Where to buy" link way at the bottom, that doesn't work for me. Web search shows this is about a US$ 200 charger. Ouch. Thanks for the review but yikes. Also I don't want to install a phone app to use or update the charger. You are right that the missing features being important (PC interface, bidirectional USB charging).
You really have to see what the db is doing to understand where the bottlenecks are, i.e. find the query plans. It's ok if it's just single selects. Look for stuff like table scans that shouldn't happen. How many queries per second are there? Remember that SSD's have been a common thing for maybe 10 years. Before that it was HDD's everywhere, and people still ran systems with very high throughput. They had much less ram then than now too.
WTF. What could possibly go wrong. Flip phone here I come.
Ok I used to feel sorry for non-libre streaming software users, but this is now in "one born every minute" territory. Thanks.
What the heck is this thing? Should many of us care?
I found the wikipedia article mostly incomprehensible but it says a few things. You are probably better off asking on MSE or Reddit, sorry to say. Wikipedia's math reference desk has slowed down a lot in recent years though that's possibly another place to try.
At least here in the US, lots of mobile phone plans have free or cheap international calls, depending on the countries involved. Example. Some home landline plans also have that. So far that has been enough for me on the few occasions when I've wanted to make an international call. If more frequent, I'd use a VOIP provider, maybe Twilio (I'm sure there are others too, but I know Twilio supports this and has a decent API).
VOIP providers will often also sell you inbound phone numbers in the destination country, if you want the other person to be able to call you from their landline without it getting rung up as an international call for them. Those aren't always so cheap, but there are obvious use cases.
Oh I see. Yeah DVD drives generally use the same SATA interface as hard drives.
If you mean a 2.5" drive (laptop sized) then yes you can generally do that. 3.5" drives are usually 1" thick and won't fit in a slim DVD drive slot.
Rating: 4.5/5.
I needed another headlamp and was familiar with an earlier, micro-USB, white-led-only version of this light. Build quality of both is fine, I'd say not fantastic but perfectly usable for not too demanding purposes, and a terrific value for the price. Claimed water resistance level is IPX6. Headband is comfortable given that this is not a tiny light. I think it is still small enough to not need an over-the-head strap. Weight is about 108g including battery and strap.
Wurkkos and Sofirn both sell these lights and I think I heard somewhere that the actual manufacturer is Boruit. There are various models with different configurations. The H25LR has one white led, one 660nm (deep red) led, and USB-C charging.
Order date: Nov 22 2024. Got shipping notice on Nov 24. Package delivered December 5, so about 10 days transit from China to California, not bad. Cost was $19.99 including an 18650 battery. Shipping was free due to order being above $19. This is hard to beat.
The included battery is labelled with Wurkkos branding and says 3000 mah. It is an 18650 button top. I didn't test the capacity or charge current, but I measured the length at around 66.5mm not including the button, with the button adding another 2mm or so. So maybe it's a protected cell, I don't know. The springs in the light are pretty stiff. If you loosen the "tail" cap by 1/4 turn or so, the light breaks contact with the battery, giving you a lockout from accidental turn-on and also from parastic drain. I tried swapping in an unprotected flat top battery and that worked fine including the lockout.
The UI is fairly sane given that it's a 1-button light with multiple colors and levels that doesn't run Anduril. Short click to activate white led at the same level as last time, long click for red, also at same level as before. Once either led is on, hold down button to cycle through 4 levels. I didn't attempt brightness or runtime measurements.
My general comment about the beam is that it's more directional that I'd prefer, particularly for close-up usage. This is for both the white and red leds. It's not terrible, it's just that I like floody beams for reading and fixing stuff.
The lowest levels of both leds are ok, not super low. Some people appreciate ultra low levels and I can understand that. These are just regular low. I find that level 2 of the white led is about right for reading, walking indoors in the dark, etc. The higher levels are there when you need them.
The red led goes from low to quite powerful, like several watts. I don't quite understand the purpose of a powerful red led. Does anyone really want long distance outdoor illumunation in deep red? I would have been fine with just the low level, or a redesigned light with two full sized white leds, plus an auxiliary small red led. The red led for me is for minimal disturbance to your own night vision and that of others around you. So it should be just bright enough to maneuver in the dark or see an object (telescope, say) well enough to reach and turn a knob. I don't remember ever wanting a bright red light.
There is a handy featue of an RGB led under the on-off switch. When you first turn on the light, that led acts as a battery level indicator (green=charged, etc.) and it stays on for a few seconds. Also, when you plug in a USB charger, it lights red during charging and green afterwards.
The instruction pamphlet says charging takes 4-5 hours, suggesting a 500 ma charge rate similar to the micro-USB version. I.e. it's likely to be the same charging circuit except with a USB-C connector. That is ok with me. The instruction pamphlet also amusingly says that questions and problems should be emailed to sofirnlight@gmail.com, heh.
A slightly more "premium" approach would be to include faster charging (3 amps) and maybe powerbank output. I do like lights with built-in chargers, as opposed to the kind where you have to remove the battery and charge it outside the light. Sorry about that, Hank ;).
Wurkkos now has the interesting HD10 Mini which is a 14500 powered anglehead flashlight / headlamp with Anduril, sort of like the Emisar DW4 but smaller. I don't really care for the 14500 battery type but it would be nice to have a lightweight 18650/18350 version of this light (the DW4 is too heavy). Or it would be of more interest if it could run on 1.5 volt AA cells in addition to 14500. As it was, I went for the 18650 version instead. For a lightweight headlamp I have a Nitecore HA11 and might get or concoct something ultralight at some point.
Anyway that's my new light day for now and it has been a good one.
Addendum (December 26): I noticed something interesting about the front of the light, center, above and below the main leds (see circled green areas in the pic). There are two milled slots that look like they were designed to hold tritium markers. I guess I'm off to mixglo.com to get some. I'll have to measure the slots but basically 2x5mm or thereabouts.
Update: Mixglo situation is that 1.5x6mm vials are $6.50 so two vials plus a $6 tube of Norland adhesive (1 ml) would total $19. BUT, Mixglo offers untracked shipping for $6 only if the order value is $15 or less. Otherwise you need tracked shipping which costs $22. It's cheaper to make two separate orders. I think I'll order one vial plus the adhesive, try to install the vial, and then order a second vial if the first one goes in ok. I'll update if and when there's a new development. Fwiw, tritiumworkshop.com (in the UK) is another well regarded source of tritium but it ends up costing a little more, depending.
Update 2: more careful examination convinces me that those little holes weren't intended for tritium but were just part of the heat sink-like styling. But, it should still be possible to do something there or nearby between the "fins", possibly with a bit of Dremel-ing. I want to take some caliper measurements before ordering vials.
Addendum 2 (2025-01-12): I just checked and a protected Fenix flat top cell (67.8mm long) works fine in tihs light.
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If anyone cares, this light was on sale for $10 last week (not any more) and I got one along with an H25L. The TS10 SG is great, smaller than I expected and a terrific value at $10. I will EDC it for a while. For some reason I thought it came with a USB-rechargeable 14500 but it's the TS10 Max that comes with a USB cell. It's ok though. I will probably get a D3AA sooner or later but this will do me for now.
I also got an HD10 a while back and I like that a lot too. Unfortunately it's being discontinued, maybe in favor of the non-Anduril HD12. So we'll again be in a situation of having no available Anduril headlamps with USB charging. Meh.