Buildapc

I’d like to share these basic rules to help anyone planning to build a PC avoid costly mistakes and make sure everything will work together. Below is a table with the most essential compatibility rules. Hope this is helpful, and feel free to add anything I might have missed!

Rule - What to check / Why it matters

1. CPU ↔ Motherboard socket / Socket must match (e.g., AM5 CPU requires an AM5 Socket etc). If they don’t match, the motherboard won’t power on or the CPU simply won’t fit.

2. CPU brand ↔ Chipset support / Intel CPUs require Intel-compatible chipsets; AMD CPUs require AMD-compatible chipsets. Each chipset only supports certain CPU generations.

3. CPU model ↔ RAM type (DDR4 vs DDR5) / Some CPU + motherboard combinations support either DDR4 or DDR5. Always choose the RAM type that your CPU supports.

4. CPU TDP ↔ Cooler mounting & cooling capability / Make sure the CPU cooler is compatible with the CPU socket and can handle the CPU’s thermal output (TDP). More powerful CPUs generally require larger and more capable cooling systems.

5. CPU Cooling System↔ Case clearance / Make sure the height of the air CPU cooler fits inside your PC case. Otherwise, if you choose to use an AIO liquid cooler instead, the case should have proper support and enough space for the liquid cooler radiator.

6. Motherboard form factor ↔ Case form factor / ATX, micro-ATX, mini-ITX — the board and the case must match physically.

7. Storage form factor ↔ Motherboard & Case / SSD M.2 devices need M.2 slots on the motherboard that supports (SATA or Nvme or both). 2.5" drives need SATA ports.

8. Storage devices↔PC Case / Make sure your case has the appropriate number of drive bays for the SSDs or HDDs you plan to install.

9. Motherboard↔GPU UEFI GOP / A modern graphics card require a UEFI-compatible firmware (most GPUs from the last decade are)

10. GPU size & power↔ Case clearance & PSU / Check GPU length vs case clearance; check GPU power connectors and PSU wattage/headroom.

11. GPU power ↔ PSU / PSU needs the correct connectors (for example, 8-pin PCIe, or dual 8-pin PCIe, or modern 12VHPWR etc) and enough wattage to properly power the GPU.

12. PSU↔Motherboard & CPU / The PSU needs the correct connectors for the motherboard (typically a 24-pin and an 8-pin) and enough wattage to properly power the CPU.

13. PSU↔Case clearance / Check PSU dimensions vs case clearance

14. Windows 11 requirements / CPU supported by MS Windows 11; The motherboard must support UEFI, TPM 2.0, and Secure Boot. GPU compatible with DirectX 12 or later, with a WDDM 2.0 driver.

Windows 11 supported Intel processors https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/supported/windows-11-supported-intel-processors

Windows 11 supported AMD processors https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/design/minimum/supported/windows-11-supported-amd-processors

Hello, my brother prebuilt pc sometimes restartes when there are network issues with our internet over the phone line.

Over the summer when the network work's with no issies he never experiences restarts, but the moment we started getting snow and networks issues his pc restarts on random, we know that network issues happen because the iptv box from our carries alwo experience network issue at the same time.

We tried reinstalling windows, also installed bazzite which worked fine, byt yesterday at the same that the iptv box experienced network issues the pc rebooted.

Is there any way to diagnose this and fix?

Edit: this happened when he bought it with a tp link wifi usb dongle last year AND over ethernet since last few weeks.

Hello everyone. (First Lemmy post!) I'm having a terrible time with my build crashing games and I know there are WAY tech savvier that might give me a few ideas. The games that crash/wont even load are: cyberpunk, Dead Space, Last Epoch, the Division 2 to name a few. I built my computer 2 years ago and upgraded a year ago to:

ASUS AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus AMD Ryzen 9 5900X NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti CORSAIR Vengeance RGB PRO SL DDR4 RAM 32GB CORSAIR RM1000x PSU

The issue very much seems to be my GPU as when I run Cinebench GPU test, after a while will close itself. It does not overheat just closes. I have tried doing a clean windows install, using DDU to wipe and then install most up to date drivers, and even attempting to reseat the GPU. I've tried drastically lowering the game settings but the result is the same.

So, first question: am I in fact stupid? second question: what on earth is wrong with this thing?

I've been having an issue with my computer deadlocking after roughly 10-30 minutes of it being on. The simple test was when the computer froze up it didn't register any inputs, caps lock didn't change any lights on my keyboard, the computer fans still ran, sound just stopped instead of tonally rattling my headphones like a regular bsod.

I'm not entirely sure what could be causing it other than it's a hardware issue. PC parts list below.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f2hPRV

The things I have tried are as follows:

Booting with my old windows 10 and Linux Mint Windows didn't seem to record anything major in event viewer.

Switching out my ram cards one at a time and running a check on the sticks themselves. Neither stick appears to be the issue.

Checked my CPU seat for any damaged pins or debris.

Made sure all plugs are properly installed and all drivers are installed.

Flashed bios to both the recommended version and the most up to date version.

Set CPU, GPU, and internal SSD to gen 4 power in the bios.

I also ran a log check on Mint and the only error that it spat out was this:

[Dec 7 13:03] mce: [Hardware Error]: Machine check events logged

[ +0.000006] [Hardware Error]: Corrected error, no action required.

[ +0.000004] [Hardware Error]: CPU:0 (1a:44:0) MC14_STATUS[Over|CE|MiscV|AddrV|-|-|SyndV|CECC|-|-|-]: 0xdc2040000602010b

[ +0.000008] [Hardware Error]: Error Addr: 0x000000000008bdc0

[ +0.000001] [Hardware Error]: IPID: 0x000700b020347000, Syndrome: 0x000000262a1f2603

[ +0.000003] [Hardware Error]: L3 Cache Ext. Error Code: 2

[ +0.000001] [Hardware Error]: cache level: L3/GEN, tx: GEN, mem-tx: GEN

Looking this up seems to spit out a fault in the GPU, but this is way beyond my skill level here.

Thank you for any advise or tips for troubleshooting. I'm still within the return and replace period for my parts so if this indicates anything needing to be replaced, that's always an option.

Thank you all very much!

Edited for formatting

I can't fit 3 120mm lian LI fans up top on this case, a Fractal Design Meshify 3, even though I thought PCpartpicker said it could. On top of that, the SL and CL series fans dont share the same touch points for transmitting power. So the one on the back would have no power to exhaust, and my reverse flow up at the front spot on the roof can't share with what would have been the other two fans. Clear oversights, oops. So now I have what is effectively two fans up top, and two fans I can't even use.

Well, not too sure how to fix this. Anyone have ideas on how I might salvage this or get the original idea to work? I uhh... I am not sure where to go from here. Not exactly urgent, one of the parts isn't here yet and I'm still waiting on things.

Also to clarify: I can't find the article or document anymore, but I was trying to emulate a fan setup that was supposedly ideal for hot components and environments (Florida.) Standard 7 fan config, but the front most top fan is intake not exhaust, supposedly it has a great effect on cooling as it wasn't just removing the fresh air from the highest front case fan.

The LG 32G810SA-W.AEU is available to me for 400€, which is half its typical price. My important use cases are photo editing and software development. I will be calibrating whatever display I buy using a spectrophotometer.

Specs, but here's a quick overview:

In the short term, at least, I'll be running it from a Thinkpad P14s gen3 (AMD), which will drive it at 60Hz. PD is nice, but 65W is a bit weak, and my laptop will drain the battery under sustained load. WebOS doesn't seem like something I'll ever use, and from what I've read, all "HDR" anywhere near this combination of size and price is worthless.

I've been known to do occasional light gaming and watch videos on my PC, which would be improved by the fast response time, but I think color gamut, viewing angles, and contrast get priority in roughly that order. I'm not finding better contrast without either a much higher price or much worse color.

I recently swapped motherboards between two builds. One went well but the other is being very finicky with detecting the CPU. Right now its laying on its side like a beached whale with the left side panel open. The heatsink is simply sitting on the CPU, no mounts, no fans. Sometimes I can strap the heatsink down, stand up the box, and close the case, but never with the fans on. Its like that's too much weight and some connection is broken. Is anyone familiar with this problem?

I had this issue previously with a different motherboard and fixed it by using a stock heatsink. But this is a fairly simple CoolerMaster 212. Its not massive. I feel like its a problem with the board or the socket.

More details: when uninstalled the old motherboard in this build, it had the same CM212 heatsink in it. When I removed that heatsink the CPU (Ryzen 5700) came out with it to my horror. Neither that CPU or that motherboard are in this build though. But that CPU was supposed it be. It did have bent pins and I did try to install it before discovering the bent pins. After straightening them the CPU still didn't work so i switched to an old Ryzen 1600, which is currently being finicky. Maybe I damaged the motherboard socket?

The motherboard in my old home server died whilst moving house and I have recently acquired a Dell Poweredge 2900 Tower Server.

It is great as a NAS but I would like to add some GPU power so I can do some video encoding.

I know I'll need a PCIe 8x to 16x adapter to get something reasonable to work with.

Would something like a Quadro K5200 work in this or would I be better off with something older such as a quadro 4000 or is that still too new?

Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I'm thinking about building a modest Bazzite HTPC with a bunch of spare parts lying around the house. Here's what I've got:

• Intel 4770k
• Asus Z87-A LGA 1150 Motherboard
• NVidia GTX 1060 3gb GPU
• 16GB DDR3 RAM
• 640W Corais PSU
• SilverStone Grandia GD09 HTPC case

I'm assuming that the Nvidia GPU with a lackluster 3gb VRAM is probably the weakest link of the whole system, but I don't know what a reasonable upgrade might be for an older system (that probably doesn't support stuff like resizable bar, which I think is needed to get optimal performance of newer GPUs?).

What do you think? What would be the best bang-for-the-buck upgrade to a system like this, assuming the main use case would be gaming and media consumption? What would you do if you happened to have this set of parts lying around in the spare parts bin?

I plan to have two m.2 drives. One with Windows, one with Linux. I'm hoping to only use Linux, but I've had issues in the past trying to switch to Linux. Either way, I think I would prefer to have the Linux drive in the 'primary' slot.

I am running an AMD CPU AM5 processor, which has 24 PCIe5 lanes, but both of the drives are actually PCIe4. The motherboard has three m.2 sockets. The first one is Gen 5, the second one is Gen 4 and the third one is Gen 4 but shares with a Gen 4 PCIe4 slot I do not intend to use, so I'm cool using it for a drive, but it does go through the chip set.

So I figured I would put the Linux drive in the second slot and the windows drive in the third slot. But because Windows is an actual operating system (go with me in that one). I thought maybe it should maybe NOT go through the chipset but instead be in slot 2 and the Linux drive should be in slot one. Slot one should be backwards compatible and since it has 24 lanes, it shouldn't affect the GPU, right?

So which configuration should I use?

Thank you in advance. I hope to get feedback before Lemmy deletes this, which they always do. Never knew how to use Reddit either.

I am looking to have a physical switch installed in my living room to control the PC.

• Is it a possibility to have that, are there issues to be considered?

• I am thinking a fancy looking wood and press clicky switch with good travel. Suppliers?

• Volume would also be great to have.

Any avice appreciated.

My current 5900x seems to be on the brink of death, randomly refusing to boot and crashing despite having disabled C-States already. I'm using as an excuse to upgrade to AM5 while taking with me as many components as feasible.

While I did already quite some research I am sure if there are things I have overlooked, so someone looking a this build (I included my old components I plan to still use) would be helpful.

I have read that the AM4 coolers are still compatible I am unsure about that particular one, or if I should replace it since it is 5 years old already...

PCPartPicker Part List

Firstly, don't think I am loaded here this is an ideal list that I will chip away at over time - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xVL9kf

I am looking at getting a fractal desigm north xl second hand, I presume there is no danger in that other than standard non new concerns.

Are case models universal or will I need a specific motherboard and then specific cpu/gpu etc.?

Probably not the right community for this, but I've been searching for a new 2TB SSD for my Thinkpad T14 G1, It's only PCIe gen 3.0, so both are going to be limited by that anyway. I specifically need resonably fast sustained write speeds, and both of these can write at >1GB/s for 15 minutes. The Samsung seems to be the better choice, but I remember them having some data loss issues a while back and that is worrying me, and the P510 is quite new, so not much time for any issues to be found. I can get both of them for the exact same price, which of these is the better pick? The P510 also seems to use a bit more power, so maybe not a good idea for a laptop?

EDIT: Thanks for the help, ended up getting the Samsung 990 pro

Christmas is coming, and I'm thinking a family PC is on the cards from santa.

It would need to run minecraft and Lego city undercover and that sort of thing.

I already have a spare TUF 750W bronze rated power supply (that I bought one time I was troubleshooting).

I will also probably upgrade my RX5700XT graphics card so put that in this build (suggestions welcome for a good bang for buck replacement that's good for a server running Mint and ollama (needs high VRAM) as well as used for gaming).

Everything else would be new. Suggestions for monitor, keyboard, mouse, speakers too please!

Let's aim for a ballpark of $1000USD (I'll be purchasing in New Zealand).

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys,

here's a build I've slapped together on PPP:

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/p8wjdb

What do you think? Any obvious blunders? Anything I could do better? I'll run Mint on it and I want to do some gaming, AI work and general PC stuff.

Hello, can you sanity check my build? The case and the video card are already bought.

I am going to mostly use it for TV and VR gaming.

Any concerns here? I am slightly worried about the AIO 280mm fitting in the case.

Thanks!

The Framework Desktop is a deep disappointment to me. Framework, the company that got into the business with an explicit purpose of building modular and repairable computers, went into a space where that was the norm (desktops), and introduced a PC that was none of those things, at an exorbitant price. When they debuted it, it was marketed specifically as a gaming machine. As much as I want to support them, I cannot reward them for this specific product, as it abandons their fundamental tenets.

Here's the build. You can see similar builds featured on many YT channels at this point with the new NV10 case and 5060 LP GPU.

Here's one from ETA Prime

And another from "MRGUI on PC"

This build: ~$1100

Comparable Framework build: ~$1700

I will concede the Framework is still better at a few things:

• Efficiency (I'm not sure that this is to any degree that's worth being factored in)
• Being that it's more efficient, it's also quieter
• Local LLMs (which no one should care about or be using)
• A bit thinner due to not have a dGPU

I've been pricing out components for my first new build in 20 years. (I've bought many ebay servers and a few mini PCs in between).

The parts are around $2k. But then I look at the amd ai max+ 395 PCs that are out or coming out shortly and I think I might be buying an already obsolete platform. For the same price I'd get 16 cores and over 2x the memory bandwidth.

I'm thinking of building a pc to play a few demanding games (e.g. PEAK, Satisfactory, Stellaris) at 1080p@60. It'd be under Proton/DXVK on Linux.

GPU prices in Australia are kinda fucked atm so that would probably have to be a used card, but would anyone have any advice on what I have so far?

https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/rtGxzP

(Disclaimer, I realize I'm asking a question that everyone will have their own answer to and my answer is dependent on me and my situation, just curious to hear other's perspectives.)

I've been rocking my GTX 1080 since a few months after launch, and it's held up incredibly well at 1440p ultra wide. However I'm finally at the point where I have a decent number of games I'm waiting to play until I have hardware that can run it (Oblivion remaster, Borderlands 4 in a couple days, GTA VI in four years when it comes to PC). However I'm stuck on what card to get. The 9070XT would be my immediate choice, if the MSRP was not 600 and the cheapest available cards selling at 720+.

Now if the MSRP was 700 I'd feel more comfortable buying the card at that price, as even at the inflated price it seems to offer the best performance in that price range. However if people have been able to get their hands on it for 100 bucks cheaper by being vigilant and waiting, I can't really justify the scalp fee.

The 5070 is the only card available to purchase at the 550-600 range, and while I'm not strictly opposed to it, I'd rather an AMD card since I've been on Linux mostly these days.

I guess long story short, is holding out for an MSRP 9070XT even viable, or is it pretty much guaranteed not to happen before the next gen comes out in a year or two? And would you pay the extra price for the 9070XT over the 5070?

Accidental dup of: https://sh.itjust.works/post/45493802 .. or cross post? idk.

Link: https://www.walmart.com/ip/XPG-CYBERCORE-ATX-Modular-PSU-1000W-80-Plus-Platinum-26-Connectors-Intex-ATX-12V/724286138

PC Part Picker Link: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/rtD7YJ/adata-xpg-cybercore-1000-w-80-platinum-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cybercore1000-bkcus

.. why is this PSU so cheap? It's on at least one tier list as being A+ rated. It's 80+ Platinum. No idea if it has the latest connector for Nvidia, but I don't really personally need or care about that.

Sold and shipped by walmart.com, so should be a legit seller. Has a 10 year warranty. Returnable in store. What am I missing? lol

(I acknowledge there are some bad reviews.. but still sold and shipped by walmart. Maybe a bad batch?.. but come on that price still)

Why is this so cheap?

I currently am using a wired Corsair iron claw, but it's rubber sides are starting to become bald from wear, and Corsair doesn't sell replacement parts. I love a mouse with side buttons, a wing, and a DPI toggle. But finding mice that are big enough to be comfortable is pretty rare. I've loved the Logitech g602 and Ironclaw so far.

Anything similar to the above, just without rubber? I prefer wired mice.

Hi everybody, I got a used laptop for cheap but the former owner kept the SSD. So I'm searching for a new drive.
I don't have any specific requirements otherwise since the device is just for office/browsing/streaming/etc

Edit: I'm currently looking into Gigabyte Gen4 4000E, Acer FA100 or Intenso MI500.