Meshtastic

This group is aimed for locals of Southeast Georgia USA. Examples would include Brunswick, Kingsland, Savannah, Waycross, Jesup, Hinesville, St. Marys, etc.

https://smp8.simplex.im/g#1k2HC-3aeDnq-U3M3xpAx6GUGSKEXXX1ZylkYswlWgo

If somebody could post this over to Reddit, I would greatly appreciate it, as I don't have an account on that platform.

Edit: live on https://meshtastic.org/docs/community/local-groups/

Ive had a number of these devices. And the number 1 thing that fails is the battery. It might also be where I am at. We have 110+F days that cause spicy pillows or failures after a year or so.

So I was wondering, is there a way to make a "daytime only" node that turns on where theres enough sunlight to power the thing, and then turns off where there is not enough sunlight?

I figure I could just get a 5V solar panel and hook it up directly to one of the nodes. I'm just nervous that it will under voltage the device over the long run if that makes sense.

So i have my MeshPocket and the ADC override is causing me some confusion.

Most nodes I see are considered fully charged when they are something like 4.21 volts.

If I set the ADC high enough to show 4.21 volts when it is done charging, then it doesn't actually show the battery icon for something like an hour and a half after I unplug it from the charger. It shows as though it's still connected to AC power.

It begins showing the battery icon at something like 4.11 volts, and if I set the ADC to the point where the battery icon shows as soon as I unplug it from the wall outlet, then the maximum it gets to while plugged in shows as 4.13 volts.

So should I lock the ADC at the higher value so that it shows 4.21 volts when it's finished charging? Or should I lock it to the lower value where it says it's at 4.13 volts when it's finished charging? But immediately shows the battery icon when unplugged from the wall.

So I got my Helltec MeshPocket in the mail a couple of days ago and noticed that even after a day and seven hours worth of usage it still was not telling me that it was on battery and that it was on AC when I know that not to be the case.

I currently have my ADC multiplier set to 4.516. I know its not fully accurate, but it is much closer.

Edit: I believe 4.516 to be too low. I am trying to narrow the range down some, but I believe 4.53 might be a somewhat better estimate.

Edit 2: After further testing, I came up with 4.535, which seemed to track properly in the app for normal battery drain, but according to the manual, the device stops charging external devices at 5%, which required 4.750. I couldn't honestly decide which to go with, so instead I decided to average the two together for a total of 4.6425

https://github.com/meshtastic/firmware/pull/8137

It appears we may be getting a new role in Meshtastic called CLIENT_BASE. It acts as a ROUTER for favorited nodes such as your personal T-Decks, T1000-E, MeshPocket, etc but acts as a standard CLIENT otherwise.

You would put the CLIENT_BASE node in your attic, on your flagpole, or on your roof and set your personal nodes as favorites. That way a weak 3rd party CLIENT with low SNR does not take priority over your much better positioned high node.

The OP in this github issue had a node on his house that wasn't getting utilized because another client in somebody else's house farther away was getting the signal weaker and rebroadcasting it first.

https://github.com/meshtastic/firmware/issues/7863

Edit: its out. Upgrade your well-positioned node to version 2.7.9 and upgrade your app to version 2.7.0-open.0

Then simply favorite your portable devices from your well-positioned node.

Hi everyone, I'm very new to LORA and Meshtastic and I'm looking to see if it can help me with a bit of home automation.

Currently I can control my entrance gate with a relay on a local MQTT network, however mobile internet near my house is very unreliable so opening the gate while I'm outside doesn't always work well.

What I'd like to be able to do is open/close my gate with a meshtastic device that I could keep in my car. I understand that I could use a POE wisblock in my house as the meshtastic server that interacts with my local MQTT network, then I could use a device in the car to send the signal to open/close the gate to the wisblock server device which would be located about 50m away.

My question is, is there a device I can get for my car capable of displaying custom text such as below that would tell me when I'm in range of the wisblock and whether or not the gate is currently open?

Eg:

GATE: Connected  
GATE STATUS: OPEN  

Alternatively, instead of text this could probably be achieved with 2 controllable LEDs

As well as the text, I'd like to have two buttons on the device which can send a message to open/close the gate. I understand that a lot of the meshtastic functionality like sending messages is done through the app, but I'd rather not depend on a phone at all if I don't have to.

I'm happy to figure out all the programming myself, such as configuring the text, and automatically sending messages from the server to update the gate status. I'd just like to know if a device like this exists in the meshtastic space.

Thanks

This is literally not meshtastic but I figure this would be a great place to post this because I for one am hella interested having recently gotten into meshtastic a couple months ago and figured you guys would get a kick out of this too.

I might have to build one or 5 of these soon.

scenario: In the future, it is possible to update your node on your 200-foot tower by simply sending the firmware file directly to the node with a zero hop direct connection

I know short fast can get about 10kbps (1KB/s) across the link, but thats just too slow to send a 1.5MB firmware update. I know that short turbo is illegal in some places, and I believe it's because it's using a bandwidth of 500KHz instead of the 250KHz of short fast.

So if you turn the error correction way down to almost off what is about the maximum bandwidth you could hope to possibly get out of the LoRa connection at 250KHz?

Even if you could pull off 125kbps (12.5KB/s) that would only require two minutes to send the firmware file from your node to the receiving node up on the tower.

Bought a sensecap T1000 E and I can see nodes, receive messages, but all messages I send end up looking undelivered with a Max Retransmission Reached notice. What does it mean?

Since my local router went down, I'm all alone, but once in a while I'll get some random packets, and I would like to be able to have a look at them. Because, for example, it says that I've received one packet, but that it was a bad packet, and I would like to be able to see it, but don't know how to see it in the debug log on Android.

So ive recently fell DEEP into this hobby, and have a few RAK boards. my friends and i have been working on our nodes, and we originally were going to go with the OLED display, but we all are BAD at soldering. Plus i find RAK charges alot for the screens. So we found out that RAK sells an e-ink display! I also found a feature request on github, asking if they can add the 14000 E-ink to the firmware. They said they did, as of 2022, BUT I SWEAR FOR THE LIFE OF ME. I cant figure out how to enable the screen! ive tried all the OLED-Overide settings ive tried diffrent CPU boards ive tried diffrent baseboard and screen.

IT HAST to be somthing im being stupid about right? i cant find anything online other than the black and white screen is suported and a 18 second video of some guy getting it working. but no instructons or breadcrumbs to make it work.

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Looking to see if I could execute this using Meshtastic.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but meshtastic is great for short amounts of data to transfer over long distances.

Thinking about having a node (comfortabley) attached to my dogs that frequently broadcasts their GPS location.

This would be an alternative to using data sim cards and other extra junk. Essential for out in the boonies.

How small could this get? I don't think they'd mind wearing a chunky block on their side, but the smaller the overall better.

And would this also be great for keeping track of important objects and personal belongings?

Thanks.

Learning FreeCAD, here's the results of my weekend.

You can use Reticulum with lofi/mesh, so thought people might be interested.

I want to put a node up on my house to act as a repeater or station, but I don't know how to spec it from the PCB available as-is on Aliexpress and other venues.

So - what would you do?

• Which board
• Which antenna
• Which power source (solar + battery?)

It needs to function on an unheated loft in Denmark year-round...

Surely, some of you have done this before, so please halp :)

Looking for a device/kit that has great range and decent battery life. People usually suggest the LilyGo T-Beam (Supreme) and T-Echo, the WisBlock Meshtastic starter kit the Heltek V3.

Which one would be best for a beginner?

This is a generic metrics post to leverage a spare ESP32 meshtastic node to ingest metrics into Grafana! We've had some congestion issues due to poor config in my area, and this has helped me pinpoint which nodes are causing the biggest problems, and block them at my repeater.

I have a Seeed SenseCAP T1000-E running fw 2.7.3 and with boosted gain turned off my node drained to 5% in 3 days and 6 hours. With boosted gain on though i have only gotten 2 days 15 hours to 7%. I know they are not the same, but i doubt i would get 16 more hours out of it.

I just went through some frustration. I recently got a T-Deck Plus and I really like it. Now that the standard firmware for it supports the expanded UI a lot of the gaps I've ready about seem to have been filled in.

My only complaint is that I wish it had better battery life. AlleyCat designed a replacement case back for it that will hold an 8000 mAh battery (it comes with 2000 mAh). It is certainly thicker, but not really too bad, and 4x the battery life would be worth that for me.

Unfortunately, it doesn't fit. Lilygo has apparently made some changes to the hardware since the Plus came out. I've seen pictures of them with the AlleyCat case back installed, so I know it used to fit. When I measure the inside of the bottom section with a caliper, the new case back is around 1.5mm narrower than the one it came with. That is more than enough to keep it from working.

There were also several other differences that would cause problems. The reset button has changed, which could be worked around. The speaker has changed so that it can't overlap with the battery, which is another showstopper.

I'm in favor of manufacturers improving designs. I just wish they would assign clear version numbers to them so we could tell what we're getting.

The device itself is great. Just don't count on the after-market for upgrades.