Fribbtastic

joined 2 years ago
[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 5 points 1 day ago

It was definitely worth it for me.

I previously had a Ender 3v2 and an Ender 5 Plus and the E5P had constant issues in which I tried to upgrade it step by step to address those issues. However, never really could fix all of them. The last issues I just gave up on was the bed. While it worked fine, I never really could get a good first layer on the bed, when I calibrated the Z-offset correctly on one side, it wasn't good on the other side because the nozzle was too far away from the bed. I rarely could get the bed mesh range under 0.4mm which was quite annoying. But smaller prints, it printed well.

Last year in October, I decided to build a Voron and got the 2.4 LDO kit for 350mm. Took a bit of time to get it all assembled and some hiccups here and there but since it is up and running there is really only one issue that I haven't quite figured out yet (the A motor sometimes doesn't want to turn, after re-plugging the cable and restarting, it works without issues).

But I could print PLA, ABS and ABS-GF on it so far. I am also currently building the Armor Turtle AFC (filament changer) for it.

But 770€ for a 250mm V2.4 sounds very low to me so I would assume that it is 2nd hand. This could be fine but keep in mind that the printer also could have issues, issues you might not know about where they would be coming from because you simply bought the machine as a whole. So, identifying the problem could be a bit annoying.

Other than that, I am really happy with mine, I usually get 0.1mm difference in the bed mesh range (running a voron tap as probe), the print speed is great (but I also didn't optimise it and just used the speed settings from the default profile in Orca Slicer)

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 6 points 3 weeks ago

Yeah, got the mail yesterday. VIP member for 6 years and immediately cancelled it.

I mean, I am okay with paying for something that I use but double the price just like that? Nope.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

It doesn't, even when you share the Server, your users will be able to stream remotely.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 4 points 2 months ago

the gold old "that is their problem, I did send the data"

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 4 points 2 months ago (1 children)

"Smart" apparently doesn't mean "it does things on its own" but simply "you can control it over our app"

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago

Some other perspective here...

I think that this information would be possible to highlight, you could, for example, have an announcement channel that is read only for the regular users.

However, that doesn't mean that this will reduce the number of questions though.

Even discord has a search function, granted it is not great but still, if you are willing to search for something you would be able to find it.

But this is the problem. For your regular users, it is much easier to simply ask that redundant question again and again instead of doing the least amount of searching yourself.

Heck, I had questions in some communities in which I copied the question in the title and searched on Google for it and got an answer in the first result.

What I want to say with this is that those redundant questions will be asked regardless of the platform.

What I think is worse about discord, especially as a help or support platform, is that it is a walled garden. All the knowledge accumulated there is locked away and cannot be found unless you are on discord and search for it. At least on reddit or Lemmy, you can still find the answer for something if you are looking for it.

I think that discord can work as a platform but only to a number of users. I have such a thing for a plugin that I am maintaining but there are not even 30 people on there. But I also give direct support and figure out issues that are either because the user did something wrong or it is an issue with the plugin. If it is a reaccuring problem I put that in the wiki or the FAQ otherwise, it is a bug report as a new issue so that the information are something you could find.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 3 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

Not only that but GW2 also can link items and skills in the chat so that someone else can view them. And the best part is that this also works with the wiki command.

So, for example, you found an item and want to know what it is and what you can use to for, just link it after /wiki and you are redirected to the full page of that item.

Unfortunately, I lately have issues with firefox in which the first wiki command somehow screws with my firefox and thinks that it needs to restart before being able to work correctly.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 3 points 4 months ago

Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 6 points 4 months ago (2 children)

As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 7 points 5 months ago
  • Guild Wars 2: 7634 hours
  • Guild Wars: 3776 Hours
  • Oxygen not Included: 1746 hours
  • Terraria: 560 hours
  • Elite Dangerous: 546 hours
[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 22 points 5 months ago (1 children)

Man, my banking app recently switched to a different keyboard. One that doesn't allow integrations like bitwarden. I also cannot copy paste my password into the password field so I have to enter my 32 character password by hand.

Mind you, this is not an app that does ANY banking in the first place it is just to authorize access to my bank account or for transactions.

So it is always a few minutes copying the password, making sure I haven't miss-typed on the shitty keyboard or because of my sausage fingers and then being logged out of my bank account in the browser because it took so much time copying that password.

[–] Fribbtastic@lemmy.world 1 points 6 months ago (1 children)

I can think of two problems:

First, not every Release Film is the same. You are talking specifically of FEP which is mostly used to describe the Release film and was commonly used for that but is the material that the Release film is made from. There are different types like the already mentioned FEP but also nFEP, PFA, ACF and probably others as well. Each of those materials has a different rigidity which would mean that they peel away from the Model sooner or later. According to this, FEP is much more flexible than PFA or ACF.

Second, the durability of the Release Film. Over time, the Release film will wear out and need to be replaced. They could become more flexible the more you use them. Cutting it too close could mean that your models will fail from one print to another.

Some other thoughts:

  • How much the Release film flexes could also depend on the surface area being printed. More surface area could mean that the layer is sticking to the release film longer
  • The same would apply to the Exposure rate because higher exposure rates make your layers stick more, including to your Release film
  • Assembly also plays a role in this. Since you need to replace the Release film at some point, you could add more or less "slack" on the film which would throw off your previous test massively.

While I like the idea, I think it would signal a false sense of confidence in your printer because if you "dial in" your lift distance and the model then fails, people could start looking in the completely wrong direction to fix a problem. I mean, with that many variables to consider, people still download the validation matrix without adjusting their bottom and transition layers based on the description and then ask why their exposure test doesn't work.

 

I have an Ender 5 Plus with some upgrades ("Old" MicroSwiss Direct Drive, Exoslide XY, custom shroud) and I occasionally have the issue in which the Cables for the Print head as well as the Filament Feeding Tube interfere or get caught on something on the printer.

The most recent example was when I printed (or wanted to print) something and in the middle of the night I woke up and checked up on it and it had a layer shift. Turns out that the filament feeding tube got caught in the X belt of the exoslide and prevented it from moving properly.

I already printed some brackets for the cables on the backside to the print head but the tube is still fairly unstable and flopping over after some time. The same with the filament feeding tube, since they are delivered in a spiral they are fairly fixed in that position and while I could and now have oriented it into a position that it wouldn't get caught, I need a more permanent solution.

What I am looking for is something to keep the cables upright, maybe even some "boom arm" that has some clips on it that pull/hold the cables up but also not as tight so that it interferes with anything...

Here is an image of my Printer. which pretty much shows the issue.

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