3DPrinting

So, found out the hard way that you can't apply heat to neodymium magnets. Had 16 magnets to press into a print (tool holder). Thought since the soldering pen I use for inserting threaded nuts into prints works so well, I would use it for this too. And it did work well, but now all the magnets are not magnets any more. Yup, heat will demagnetize them. Part is useless, so had to trash it. Found out something new, but wish I had heard about this beforehand.

Hi there, So I'm not a total n00b to 3D printing, but I'm not a pro either, so I thought I'd post here to get some insight on my suspicions.

I downloaded this little gizmo thing off Thingiverse. I didn't design it. For several years, I had a InfuriEnder 5 which I got about 3 good prints out of in a dozen. So I upgraded to a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS Lite, which I love. Everything I've printed (and it's been A LOT) has printed flawlessly with no input from me, until this little gizmo thing.

As you can see, it is printing a bit stringy, and I know enough to know it's very likely because it's basically trying to print in thin air without supports and the layers arent adhering to each other in the horizontal areas. Now, it doesn't really have major issues. It ends up perfectly usable but I want it to be better. Preferably without supports. The designer says it doesn't need supports but all of the places that this happens is clearly where things are horizontal "out in space". For example, the stringy bits of the main photo above, that piece printed flipped from the way it's sitting in the photo, so it would have printed the dome up.

ANYWAY. Could this be improved by just slowing down the printer to encourage better layer adhesion or something? I am trying to avoid supports because once it works out, I want to print a TON of these and I want to avoid a lot of post cleanup.

More images: 2, 3

I got some of the Sunlu High Speed PLA that I've been hearing good things about. On the first print I discovered that, while it prints beautifully, it creates a ludicrous amount of dust going through the extruder.

So I open it up to clean it out, when suddenly the tensioning spring shoots out. Searched for about an hour in total, it's nowhere to be seen.

I'd been thinking of replacing the extruder for a dual gear one anyway, so I took the opportunity to order a nice one from Micro-Swiss.

The problem is, that I have an FLSun Q5, and I'd seen from videos online that it doesn't quite sit flush - you need to print a spacer.

So I needed to get the printer patched up for one last hurrah. The spring was salvaged from a broken clothes peg. And it worked perfectly - not just "well enough", but easily as good as the original.

So in summary, if it helps anyone, losing the spring doesn't mean you need a new part - a clothes peg spring works just as well.

Quick update on this problem:

As suggested, I turned on one-wall in the slicer. That eliminated the holes.

However, I also turned on ironing and that seems to have created black smears in the white letters: it looks like black material that got picked up by the white nozzle at the edge of the letters and got dragged across.

I know it's ironing because it's just at the surface and it scratches off easily with the tip of an x-acto knife.

So, I think ironing may not be such a great idea with such small bi-color features. Maybe the smearing is acceptable on the edge of a large features with another color, but those letters are 10mm so it kind of ruins them across the entire width.

Apart from that, there are gaps between the black and the white material on the right-hand edges of the letters. But it only shows under the microscope: they're not really visible, and certainly don't stand out like the black holes right in the middle of the letters like before.

So for the next print, I'll turn off ironing and see how it goes. I think one-wall alone will do nicely.

Thanks for the tips everybody!

Share some of your favorites! It could be a fun discussion/way to discover new prints.

Example categories:

• Functional vs Fun
• Free vs Paid
• Simple vs Complex

An image (or link if it's okay by the mods) would be appreciated too.

They happen when lines meet where the width of the feature isn't an exact multiple of the extruder's width and the printer has trouble filling in the void. Usually they're fairly invisible, but when printing white on black, they stand out like a sore thumb.

I'm wondering if there's a good simple way of avoid this problem in the slicer. The ultimate fix of course is to print a square sheet of white PLA under the white letter, but I'd rather not mess with my model because it's quite complex already.

I just love 3D-printing. Not only is it almost impossible to produce a custom case like this one using tradtional machining (well, not impossible but phenomenally difficult and expensive), I can crank out a complete enclosure with the electronics mounted inside with only a few hours of CAD'ing and printing for a few bucks.

From thought to professional-looking product in less than a day and super-cheap! What a wonderful technology. It never ceases to amaze me 🙂

I got a new Biqu H2V2 for my Ender 3 pro , since myold hotend started getting unreliable and that was a great excuse for yet another upgrade.

I wasn't happy with the carriage holder I printed, so I wanted to print a new one. After afew hours of printing, I needed to abandon one part, since it was incredibly messy with blobs of PLA gooped on the print. Since I needed the new carriage mount, I didn't think anything off it and simply abandoned that part and continued the other ones.

Today, I saw that the heating block is completely gooped up with PLA (see pictures). So now, I got two questions:

1. How should I remove that gunk? I was thinking o| carefully peeling of everything without the silicone sleeve while the hotend is at a low PLA-bending temp, like 150°C, or 175°C.
2. What caused this? Flowrate too high (the prints look the part)? Too fast extrusion? Heatcreep?

Thanks in advance. (:

The plastic part inside this latch broke, and I wanted to print a replacement. I was genuinely surprised at how straightforward it was!! This is my first draft: it fit and worked fine! I made a second version with a few cutaways around the corners, and that was the final draft. (I forgot to take a picture of that one.)

There are lots of awkward overhangs, and I was having a hard time figuring out how it could be printed (a) in a good orientation for the stresses and (b) without supports. Then I remembered: we can just use supports!! I usually try to design so that they aren't needed, so I almost never use them. But wow they made this easy.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/29505513

So I have this old CPU water cooler and my laptop still throttles from some AI workloads on the GPU due to thermals. There is a nearly flat spot directly above the GPU heat pipes. So I'm making a way to connect the water cooler block.

After cutting a hole in the laptop enclosure cover, I need a way to attach the water cooler block securely. I have come up with a ring that can use the enclosure hole as the mount for the water block. I still need to design this mount. However, I needed to test and iterate the inner enclosure mounting ring before creating a mechanical mount for the cooling block, so I decided to design a cover for the hole when the laptop is not on my bedside stand, (physically disabled/laptop is for ergonomic needs/never actually leaves the bedside stand).

I went with a bit of a Dune theme with some asymmetric implied symbolism that harkens the Arab undertones of Arrakis and House Atreides.

I was also working on dialing in the finest details I can achieve with a 0.25mm nozzle and polycarbonate. I need to lower the first layer z a few thousandths as this came out with too many visible layer lines, but overall it is okay. I'm working on ways of adding infill like patterns in the slicer but making them appear nicer. I still haven't nailed that one yet as this print has minor deviations between the geometric art pattern and the infill like screen. I did this one by brute force in FreeCAD but I think I can do better infill like mesh patterns after watching some tutorials on the Lattice 2 workbench.

I am going to create an insert of another color or texture for the House Atreides symbol.

I had to build my printer enclosure to print these in PC too.

This seems really neat. I've always wanted something like this, society wide. A repairable tool is far more valuable to me.

I own Avtek CreoCube 3D but producer decided to delete all files and programs for it. This currently makes printer unusable since I can't connect it to any outside program. I tries octoslicer but it didn't detect printer. Does anyone know what to do? Maybe I should tear down printer and mod it so it would be using my own microcontroller instead?

I've seen the BMCU mentioned a few times as an alternative for the Bambu Lab AMS, given the price I'd like to give it a go with my P1S but, I've seen comments elsewhere that it should work, but YouTube is surprisingly light on BMCU content and I was wondering if anyone in the community has one before I take the plunge?

Posted on makerworld, printables, thingivese.

"Cloth" on Molotov cocktail is made from a bread tie. Otherwise you will also need glue, jump rings , earring hooks and an eyelet screw. You could probably use a bit of wire instead of the eyelet screw if you have that instead.

Prints fast and easy.

Free and commercial free too. https://makerworld.com/models/1392048

https://www.printables.com/model/1288324-civil-disobedience-earring-or-keychain-set

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7031109

These are symbols. I'm not advocating for vandalism.

Honestly I got the idea from games I play that have bricks and Molotovs.

Im not promoting their use. They are symbols of feelings that many of us are having right now. Just like the guillotine.

But we aren't going around building guillotines. At present, Ive not seen any riots in the U.S nor use of either of these except on Nazi cars on dealership lots.

All were obviously 3D printed. Layer lines were very clean. Even saw a kid walking around with one in hand hugging his parents to buy it for him.