captain_aggravated

joined 2 years ago

The guy who named it was running away from it in a panic at the time. "AH FUCK! GORILLA! GORILLA GORILLA GORILLA!"

I mean Rotax is kicking some ass, they've got a 160 horsepower engine now, weirdly enough out of the same displacement as the 912S. Imagine if they made a 6 cylinder variant, damn thing could make 300 horsepower easy.

I cannot think of a reason to use a Corvette engine in an airplane other than "fuck it."

There's gonna be a lot of pencil whipping by A&Ps I think. If I understand correctly, the way they're gonna deal with it is roll out a high octane lead-free fuel that just works, so most of the mechanic's job is going to be putting new stickers next to gas caps and signing logbooks.

[–] captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works 4 points 3 hours ago (2 children)

False! The industry is phasing out leaded gasoline in 2030. California signed a ban on leaded gasoline after 2031 into law. There are some aircraft out there that I wonder what's going to happen, but a lot of the GA fleet is going to be well supported.

In addition to that, there's an expansion of the light sport rule in the works which should allow most of general aviation to advance past the 1970's.

Well, that'll piss some folks off I think. I actually appreciate things like the crowd at the opening joust rocking out to We Will Rock You. The banquet dance scene is better executed; they start out with the old time dance and then fade into modern club dancing, as if to say "Here's what's actually taking place" versus "Here's how the characters feel about it in terms a modern audience can understand."

I think I'm more talking about how a lot of the sets look like styrofoam? Especially castle interiors or other masonry? There's just something very 80's Gragthar The Destroyer about it.

[–] captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works 2 points 4 hours ago (2 children)

So in the specific case of Cessnas, the first Cessna 172 to require leaded fuel was built in 1977. That was the year they switched from a 6 cylinder Continental O-300 engine to that goddamn 4 cylinder Lycoming O-320 H2AD engine. Bigger displacement, two fewer cylinders, more compression, required leaded fuel.

I gave flight instruction in a new built light sport aircraft equipped with a Rotax 912 engine. Instead of Lycoming and Continental's 1930's era tech, BRP-Rotax's aircraft engines are basically 1980's motorcycle engines. Water cooled, Nikasil cylinder linings, electronic ignition, constant velocity carburetors or EFI, gear reduction, and they run absolutely fantastic on regular automotive gasoline. No lead.

On a similar vein, there's indicated airspeed, calibrated airspeed, true airspeed, and ground speed. Aviation comes with a hard requirement of 5th grade math.

[–] captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works 51 points 8 hours ago (12 children)

The "chemtrail" conspiracy is particularly stupid. Like, you've got to put effort into your own duncefuckery to make the moronic leaps necessary.

"Jetliners are spraying mind control juice"

Uh huh, so, where on the jetliner is it stored? The belly is full of avionics and baggage compartment, the passenger compartment is full of seats, the wings are full of fuel, the tail has maybe a little void space, but enough to crop dust entire time zones? Can you show me any evidence of a jet aircraft equipped with such a dispersion system?

Oh they're flying special flights just for this? Okay, can you show me such a flight that obviously isn't what it says it is? There hasn't been a single air crew, maintenance tech, parts supplier, chemical plant janitor, etc. come forward about any of this?

Oh it's mixed straight into the fuel! Okay, so the Vote For Obama juice still works after spending hours to days dissolved in kerosene and PRIST, and then burned in a jet engine. Again, nobody anywhere in the fuel supply infrastructure has said anything about this. There hasn't been a single Youtube video or Reddit thread about "what are my bosses pumping into the jet fuel?"

I guess they've also paid off all the chemical labs that analyze fuel, oil and other fluid samples. Because that's a thing, aircraft mechanics take samples of engine oil and such and send them to labs for gas chromatography. It's kinda cool, they'll send you a report that says "We're seeing elevated levels of tin and copper consistent with accelerated wear of the intake valve bushings." Nobody has gotten a report back from a lab like that talking about exotic molecules ?

Why would you bother using jet airliners for this that fly extremely high? Some of the particles dispersed would outright NEVER land, some of them will drift hundreds if not thousands of miles before coming to rest in the ocean or a desert. Why not mix the Vote For Obama juice into diesel fuel to be burned by semi-trucks, down near the ground usually where you can find people? Or into automotive gasoline? Surely you could use much less of the chemical that way because it's being burned so close to people.

Maybe that's why Big They are so fucking keen to keep Republicans driving big gas guzzling micropenis trucks around? So that Republican areas get basted with Vote For Obama juice.

Oh, also: There's tetraethyl lead in aviation gasoline. Added as an octane booster and anti-knock additive, it's a POTENT neurotoxin that makes people stupid and asocial. The fuel pumps have a big sign on them saying as much. It shows up in those chromatography tests of engine oil...and in fact you can see it. A bucket of used aviation piston engine oil has a dull metallic sheen on the surface from the lead that didn't make it out of the engine. It's not burned in the quantities that we burn jet fuel, but piston-powered planes do fly lower and closer to civilization in most cases.

But you can't care about any of that, you've got third generation fetal alcohol syndrome so you're just scared of the lines in the sky.

Those who see empty platitudes when they see them.

I suppose it's a jab that out of all 900 square light years of Alaska a lot of those inset maps will only call out Denali.

I got gas from Sheetz today and it put up a silent and stilla ad on the display while the pump was running.

Gas mask training. They make you take the mask off.

 

I foreshadowed this one pretty good. I'm still working on the countertop but the cabinetry is done.

And here are some of those infernal hinges that are way harder to buy than they should be.

 

I park under a car port and the truck collects a layer of dust. It rained so I just backed it out into the driveway a bit. It didn't get all the dust, some of it's on there pretty good. I'm still gonna have to wash it.

 

Friends, fellows, lurkers, I have suffered a temporary field promotion. For the duration of this post you may address me as Major Aggravated.

I am building a sideboard/buffet/server/credenza/whatever you want to call a low cabinet for the dining room. Shaker style, mostly out of walnut. It features posts/legs at the corners to which the doors will be directly hinged, and the way I've designed this cabinet, the doors will be 3/4" thick, and sit 1/4" inset from the front of the leg. The leg is 1+3/4" thick, so there's 3/4" of leg inside the cabinet. There are other structural reasons I did it this way.

This complicates the matter of door hinges. I know of no pin-and-barrel hinge that will do the job, there's some weird specialty mortise mount concealed hinges that I'm just not sure if they'll work in this application, pivot hinges are too "too cheap for Ikea" for the project, and then there's European-style concealed cup hinges. I've known of these things for awhile but never really looked into them.

Until a couple weeks ago.

These hinges attach to the door with two screws and a big fuckoff hole. The offset from the edge might change slightly from project to project but the door half is pretty standard across the range.

On the cabinet side, there's like 8 different ways they can attach, depending on the anatomy of the cabinet, whether it has a face frame or not and if there are any offsets to consider.

The hinges actually come in two halves, the door side with the cup and the bracket for the cabinet side, and they clip together in a standard way, so that you can fuck up and mix and match parts in ways that won't work.

There isn't a European hinge made to attach to my cabinet as designed, because it sort of does and doesn't have a face frame simultaneously. The no-frame type wants to screw to a wall farther back than the leg, so that's a no-go, and the face mount type wants to attach to a face frame that is flush with the back of the door. They don't really make this easy to learn. They like to refer to the features of their hinges by marketing names that they never explain anywhere, and they don't really describe what they do. You just have to learn that "BLUMotion" means it has a damper through osmosis.

No website that sells these damn things organizes them well. Go shopping for wood screws, you get 90,000 results and you can then refine it by shank diameter, length, drive type, button or bugle head, self-tapping or no, self-countersinking or no, material/coating/finish etc. until you have 3 results, a 4-piece bag, a 50 count box and a 50 pound bucket.

Not these goddamn euro hinges. Nowhere that sells euro hinges in the Western hemisphere does it that way. It seems like a wholesaler buys parts from Blum, assembles them into kits, and these kits get dropshipped on eBay, Amazon, Rockler, the usual scumbags. So you don't get to query a database to narrow down your selection, you get to try to guess what search term will get you what you need and then look at the pictures, a practice that shall henceforth be known as "euro shopping."

You'll see the same marketing images on different platforms accompanied by different diagrams, dimensional drawings or installation instructions. Put it all together and they still don't tell you everything you need to know. I note that Rockler issues their own manuals for these things, not Blum's. Looking at Blum's publications, I can understand why.

I finally figure up what hinge set I think I need, given the little diagrams they provide. I order a few sets for my current and immediate future projects.

What arrives is not what I ordered.

The door side, the actual hinge, looks right. But it comes with the wrong bracket. I see they sell just the brackets, I can order those and get them faster than processing a return. I order some of those. They fit. I make a model out of scrap to make sure they'll work, and the reveal between the frame and the door is like a quarter inch too big. Because it turns out the curvy bit of the hinge is 9.2 more bodacious than what I need, and you'd only learn that by carefully comparing the hinge in your hand with two diagrams in their catalog.

None of the components are stamped with a model or part number. Hell, the people selling these hinge sets don't say "Contents: 2x 640449 hinges, 2x 630449 brackets" so you can compare to Blum's catalog.

It's the smell of ten million monkeys fucking ten million footballs.

 

It's very irritating. And I'm making a lot of it this week. Shut your tracts folks, this one's a doozy.

 

A surprising amount of cat hair, I think I need to brush her more. I just kept pulling balls of felt that had once been cat hair out of the workings of the scroll wheel.

It feels sooo much exactly the same now.

 

It's a little scratch and dent given it's made out of offcuts, scraps and extras from other projects but I think it came out okay. Three coats of fake "tung oil" finish and it came up to a nice warm semi-gloss, and ambered up the pine enough to take the edge off the grain.

Detail shot of the side hung, center guided drawer and its rabbeted dovetail front and shop made handle.

Yeah I'm going on a bit of a victory lap here, I'm pretty happy with how this one turned out.

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works to c/woodworking@lemmy.ca
 

I'm slapping together a night stand for my cousin out of crap I have lying around the shop, and I'm using the project as an excuse to try out some stuff.

Carcass is "hardwood" mystery meat 7-ply from Lowe's. Joinery is all dovetails; lower shelf and mid frame are sliding dovetails, upper frame is half-blinds. I did that to see if I could. Answer: Barely. The sliding dovetails were fine but the half-blinds wanted to blow the plywood apart.

Face frame is rift sawn traumatized pine. That's what I managed to salvage from a damaged section of 8:4, and judging by the growth rings that tree had been through at least one divorce. The curve on the bottom I laid out with a bowed spline. First time I've actually done that. It's attached to the carcass Norm style, with Tite-bond and #10 biscuits.

Tomorrow I'll build the drawer.

 

I have a Porter Cable dovetail jig. It works reasonably well when it's properly aligned, but properly aligning it a hilariously clumsy process of guess and check. The alignment lines on the templates are on the top surface, so there's a quarter inch of parallax error, and the brass adjustment nuts aren't graduated in any meaningful way. The instructions say things like "If the joint is too loose, move the jig away from you." How far? Depends on where you hold your head. It results in a guess-and-check, guess and check mentality. There is no try, measure how far off it is, and adjust it based on that measurement.

I solved both of these problems with a knife.

I printed out a little wagon wheel looking thing to use as a guide so I could put some graduation marks around the brass thumb screws. They run on a 16TPI threaded rod, so 1 full turn drives it 1/16th inch, 1/2 turn 1/32", 1/4 turn 1/64", and 1/8 turn 1/128". I stopped there because that's about the limits of my ability or need to measure. It's not on an absolute scale, but now I can move both sides of the template with some precision, if not accuracy.

I also scribed an alignment line on the back of the template, and then down each side of each template tooth. The factory alignment lines are like 1/16" wide or better, so I just scribed the location of the center. That should eliminate parallax error.

I'll give it a test run tomorrow and see if I helped it any.

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by captain_aggravated@sh.itjust.works to c/lemmyshitpost@lemmy.world
 

After several small projects, it was time for a cleaning and organizing. Spent like 3 hours and the place is still a disorganized wreck. I've just got too much shit in a little building.

I also dropped a clamp on my foot, -2hp.

But, the place is somewhat less dusty now.

 

god. dammit I have to table saw this butcher block apart.

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