techsupport

I would like to add terminal sounds to my computer. Think the sounds on terminals in Fallout or Starfield. Has anybody already attempted the project and how did they achieve success?

My partner keeps the Bluetooth antenna of her Android Pixel 4a (5G) on because she wears a Fitbit. On the occasion I want to use Bluetooth (e.g. in my car or via portable speaker), devices will ALWAYS connect to her phone over mine if she's anywhere nearby. Sometimes it even steals the connection when I was already connected.

Why is this? Is there some way to steal the connection back?

It happened when I had a Pixel 4a (non-5G) and with a Pixel 8a. It's especially maddening when it's the audio stream in my car. I believe I've tried unpairing both phones, pairing mine first and then hers, and hers still ends up taking priority.

EDIT: Tech Support answers only, please. If I wanted to get trolled there are plenty of other places for that.

Do I need to add a country code, or format it in some weird way? I tried typing delete in caps, before you ask.

I've occasionally tried installing various apps that get blocked by the Windows 10 firewall, and I can't create a rule to allow the install because it is coming from a temp folder, the name of which changes on every attempt, and I don't see a way to whitelist the entire C:\Windows\Temp or C:\Users\eins\appdata\local\temp.

Installing Bluestacks for example, the firewall log shows the install file existing in \device\harddiskvolume4\users\eins\appdata\local\temp\7zs84d5994e\bluestacksinstaller.exe while others are in C:\Windows\Temp

• initiate install from C drive or from SD card, using Run as Admin
• I don't have access to the router, or any separate device I can use to block unwanted traffic
• Windows 10
• I typically use Malwarebytes Windows Firewall Control, but I can't get anything through the built-in interface either
• can't install Linux until I get a backup PC, because this one is all I have
• bought this laptop with 4 GB ram in 2015, I can't get it to do anything with Hyper-V

thanks

Hello, I'm encountering a startup error that prevents me from launching the game. Each time I try to start it, I receive a message saying: "Please close the ACE-BASE application before starting the game."

I have no idea what ACE-BASE is or why it's interfering. I checked Task Manager and tried closing background applications, but nothing helped. I've also followed every potential fix I could find on Reddit, YouTube, and other online forums—but the issue still persists.

This has become very frustrating. I just want to play the game I paid for without unnecessary technical barriers. Please provide a proper solution or release a patch that resolves this conflict. It’s unreasonable for a background or unknown application to block access like this.

So, i bought an airpods 3 almost two years ago. I was pretty happy with them right up until the warranty was about to expire, when half of the earbuds stopped reliably charging in the case. I brought it into the apple shop, and eventually they exchanged the whole thing, case and airpods. Now, after around half a year later, the issue happened to me twice in a few days. Am i just unlucky, or does the airpods have some fairly significant design fault?

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a second hand phone (Budget around $400aud, ~ 1kMYR or ~$260usd)

My dream phone has:

• Dual Sim (preferably at least one esim)
• USB C with OTG (preferably at least usb3)
  • 2 usbC ports would be extra nice to have (allow me to dream)
• 3.5mm headphone jack (preferably 24-bit/192kHz)
• microSDXC slot (preferably dedicated)
  • if not dedicated then one where sticking the Sim chip to the SD card hack works
• decent custom rom and with it android 15 support!!
• at least 8GB RAM
• not a potato for a camera
• battery life to last bored geeks day
  • at least a work day of music and some comics and some brain rot on the socials and when I get home I got 20% left

Nice to have would be:

• ok Selfie camera
• fully charged in a hour
• 5G
• wifi 6
• a decent GPS chip

Phones I'm currently kinda looking at:

1. Sony Xperia 1 IV
   • insufficient custom Rom support, 2 guys are working on a linage port
2. Sony Xperia 1 iii / current favourite
   • ok custom rom support, bit old, unsure about camera quality
3. Poco x5 pro (5G)
4. Samsung A72

I'm a big fan of OnePlus, had the 1 and 7 but hate the trend towards no headphone jack and no SDcard support and then not even a second USB port

I used LinageOS a while back and quite liked it ... On my last phone I used YAAP and loved it

Cheers for reading ... PLS drop your 2 cents below

One of our Win PCs got infected with that thing. It creates a VB script in appdata, and when it runs, every USB drive you put in it gets everything on it hidden - but a new shortcut with a name of a drive, that actually points at a script leading to a new infection. Updated Win just blocks it, but this one PC was on 1709, nuff said.

Itsohappens we had a thing to present via this PC, and quick, and at that time no one told me about the virus. We tried 4 different clickers one by one (2 A4 Tech, one generic, one Logi) and first three of them stopped working after that. They are all with fresh batteries, their BT adapters weren't recognized as USB drives I assume. What could go wrong?

I don't believe this VB script could by any chance move critical information on BT adapters like it did with USB drives, right? Even if there's a little flash drive with software, it should be set as RO by default. But I don't see any other explanation to that.

I don't have access to any of these three at the time, but I'm curious where should I begin to inspect this problem? How can I, probably, see the 'contents' of such an adapter, see coming inputs and outputs, maybe watch it initiating a searching routine, etc? I also have a couple of universal BT adapters that I bought for my gamepads, is there any use for them here, or are these toys strongly paired device-to-adapter?

Now, thinking about it, I am not sure if I tried them on my Arch (btw!) so, somehow, maybe it's only reproduceable under Win (with Logi clicker and Logitech bluetooth m+kb still working on that infected machine?)? Again, would like to hear, if there's something I can look for.

Bonus points for advices I can try on Linux, since Lemmy landed me there, and if I'd ever need to look deep into various devices again, better to learn it on a system that I'd use in the future, so I won't need to relearn it.

Hello, the issue I'm facing is that Windows keeps lowering my microphone volume even though I'm speaking at a normal level. I'm not shouting or speaking loudly—sometimes I'm just whispering—and yet Windows still reduces my volume automatically. Because of this, I can’t use my microphone, which I paid hundreds of dollars for, at its full potential. I’ve tried every suggested solution from YouTube, Reddit, and other forums, but nothing has worked. I believe this is caused by a faulty piece of code, and it urgently needs to be fixed. This problem has existed for years—it was present in Windows 10 and unfortunately still persists in Windows 11. We shouldn't have to endure this frustrating issue any longer.

Any possible fix for this? It feels like my video quality is incredibly shite and grainy, even in bright light conditions and after cleaning the camera

Recently my laptop died. Thankfully, the issue wasn't the SSD. So I bought an external enclosure, took the SSD out of the laptop, and popped it into the external enclosure. I was hoping at that point, it would "just work".

I was hoping that when I plug it into my steam deck in desktop mode, it would recognise it and I could get some files off of it. Well, just one file really, my Sims 4 save. But it isn't recognised at all.

Is there anything I can do to get the save file off of the SSD? I can borrow someone else's (windows) laptop if necessary, though it didn't recognise it last time I plugged it in there either.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have an SSD bay (left), an ARM computer (Center) and a plug board (right). They’re wired together as well as to the router above. The problem is that it’s hard to clean the floor.

Is there a way to improve the setup so it’s less obtrusive? Every time we move the stuff to clean the floor the server goes down and needs a reboot. It’s such a pain.

Edit: thanks for the suggestions everyone. I'm going to swap the plug board for a double adapter. That way, they can be plugged in behind the locker leaving one less thing to deal with.

I'll either put the remaining stuff on the locker or else get a raised platform / stool for underneath.

I enjoy playing modded games on PC. My IT competency is all informal and hands on so I apologize if this is a dumb question or it seems like I have no idea what I'm talking about. What I was looking to do without using a 3rd party software was to have a game playing in any type of windowed, borderless windowed, or full screen display window on monitor 1 while also having the ability to navigate an open browser window or even just navigate my desktop on display 2. This is all a very normal set up I know but the brick wall I hit happens because my ability with a keyboard is a huge gaming retardant for me. So what I wanted to try and set up was for the gamepad and gaming window, regardless of what display monitor it's being used on, to remain as an "up front" and active process while being able to use my keyboard and mouse as their normal operating devices to navigate my dektop or other active program windows simultaneously.

I have only looked into this briefly because it was very evident after searching the internet that there was not a way to natively set up my PC to allow me to game on one monitor using a gamepad while also having the ability to freely navigating other open windows on monitor 2 using mouse and keyboard with the gaming window remaining active.

I'm playing Witcher 3 currently but earlier this year on the same PC and Windows 11 setup, I swear I was able set up Fallout London by editing the setting.ini file to do exactly what I describred no problem. Admittedly I'm usually as baked as an apple pie when playing with games or modding, but I flipping swear by editing the fallout ini it allowed me to set the the window as always on top and active (meaning it didn't move to the background, or pause, or cut the gamepad off when the mouse was used on other dosplay). It was a series of of like 3 lines of true/false display parameters I entered that allowed me to choose how the program would respond when my input switched from the program window's gamepad to the PC window's mouse/keyboard input.

Fast forward to me trying to get the same setup for a modded Witcher 3 and the results of my searching was that it is universally accepted technical impossibility to use a gamepad exclusively in 1 open window program while also using a mouse to navigate a PC's desktop or other app's open windows simultaneously.

My questions are all to ubderstand why this would be so difficult to implement as a standard option you can set in your OS settings? I'm certainly not qualified to actually be questioning this but in my limited understanding of the devices and platforms in play, this really seems like a very do-able and sought after feature.

Pc's with touch screens are basically doing everything I would like to happen but using touch screen inputs and parameters instead of a gamepad's input. What am i missing in this workflow that is brickwalling this from being an actual feature?:

1. Creating an OS native setting where the user can choose how the OS handles active and sleeping windows. For example, option A is to keep the default function of determining active windows based on actual cursor location. No clue how it's programed but basically keeping things as they currently are where the hover over an open window without clicking in it but still be able to scroll with mouse wheel. Then option B would allow you disable the function where inactive windows are relegated to only running background processes.

2. The setting would then require a subsequent setting option to pop up for the user set when the step 1 selection was set to have multiple open windows running simultaneously as seperate active windows. This setting would be for the user to choose between utilizing one input device to control the PC globally as normal or to be able to assigned an installed device to only perform within the limits of an assigned program's window when it is open and active.

Basically I'm picturing this working similar to the way a touchscreen laptop allows you to choose between standard desktop mode and tablet mode. Having the actual keyboard and mouse with global permissions as they always had so they will over ride the controller in its assigned program window for troubleshooting, saftey net in case input device 2 (gamepad or w/e) fails mid use. And the 2ndary input device is only able to operate in the confines of the assigned program window.

It also seems like I have messed around with software or device settings in the past that are already doing this for shit like Android Auto, augmented note pads and their stylus, the already mentioned touch screen displays, and I'm guessing but I wanna say some of the more accommodating accessibility options available for different types of handicapable input devices. I mean shit, don't they have to make all computers capable of being used with only a keyboard or only a mouse option already?

I'm fully expecting the answer to be that Windows and Microsoft are too far in the mindset of fuck what users want to include a feature that will require any added operating/programming costs. But like I started, I know that I don't know enough to know if there are major obstacles engineering this to work.

The chromecast I've got is about 10 years old and a few things don't cast on it no more. I'm guessing I need a new one, but is there another option?

I have a Pixel 8a, which is certified qi1, and 2 devices that can wirelessly charge it, a baseus battery pack and an ESR phone holder, they're both certified qi2 (which is backwards compatible with qi1), yet when I charge with them I can at most reach ~2.2W charging instead of the 7.5W advertised maximum for my Pixel 8a.
I don't understand why that is and if I can even theoretically reach the maximum supported charging power.
If so, how would I test my devices to figure out what their real thresholds are or if there are incompatibilities somewhere?

I took this Chromebook touch display off of a broken Chromebook.

It’s a SHARP LQ123P1JX33/A01 .

I’ve determined that I would need an eDP 40-pin to mini-DisplayPort adapter for output to the LCD screen, but I’m having trouble finding information for what I would need (if I need anything) for this connection? I assume this is the part of the display that handles the touchscreen. Is it possible to adapt this for external use, or is it not worth the hassle?

I got a new AIO cooler and needed to also move to a bigger desktop case.

So I moved all of my internal components from one case to the other and also removed the old AIO and installed the new one. Besides that, I might have damaged my PSU in the process so I had to replace that too. It wouldn’t turn on anymore so I just replaced it this morning.

I tried booting into Windows and it went to a BSOD saying cache_manager was the problem.

I tried to get a recovery in there and Windows tried to automatically repair drives but kept coming up on this same error.

I created a KDE Neon live USB and booted into that. Zero issues. I then manually formatted my Windows OS disk in KDE and also removed the Windows bootloader. Basically trying to start from a scratch system with no Microsoft any.

Still getting the BSOD, even with the Windows 11 USB installer I created from their creation tool. I am able to get to that purple screen in the installer and see a cursor to move around with my mouse. That’s the part in the Windows installer where you tell it what edition and which drive you want to choose. But after a few moments, it errors out to a BSOD.

Now I’ve actually went ahead and installed KDE Neon to my system. I use it on my laptop, but I need Windows on this computer for work (it’s my personal computer I game with but also use for remoting in for work).

I’m going to try redoing my USB as a new Windows 11 installer and see if that goes through, but wondering if there’s anything else I can do for this? Anything else to try?

Hi,

I have a Western digital 'WD My Passport' external usb harddisk and it has become defective in some way.

When I connect it to windows I've managed to get access to it before, but it was really sluggush to navigate in and it would fail to open certain folders and files. Now I cannot get windows to recognize it al all. It powers on and windows says something like 'setting up deveice', but nothing more happens.

If I open windows 'disk management' the drive shows up as 'Disk 1', 'Unknown', 'Not initialized'.

I wes reccomended a tool called Recuva (https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva), but since windows doesn't recognize the disk I cannot tell the tool where to look for files to recover.

I've also tried a tool called TestDisk (https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download), but it doesn't see the drive.

Can anyone help please? :)

Thanks

Windows 10/11 is a requirement because it will be a shared console, sorry y'all. I'm considering a refurb'ed model on eBay because some include Win10 Pro licenses, which would save ~$80 versus building from scratch.

The PC would be used for streaming media through Plex and maybe some light gaming via SteamLink, so specs aren't very important as long as it can handle basic web browsing and graphic output.

Has anyone here had any experience with these? I would imagine they're pretty no-fuss boxes given that they're business-class units, but I also understand that they're several years old. What' the upgradeability of them like? What specific models/SKUs would be recommended for this use / are there any other SFF PCs that are comparable?

This is for chromium and librewolf(firefox) on arch linux; do other people's os s have this too? The unicode characters are shavian

i'm looking for a cheap graphics card that doesnt produce much heat. amd prefered. i currently have a saphire rx470 that cooks the whole room. this pc is used for web browsing and video streaming. no gaming. recommendations appreciated!!

Edit: Clearing the cache fixed it, thanks!

This has been occurring for a while now, and I've recently noticed that:

• It only happens when logged in (not incognito mode)
• It only happens on my desktop browser, not Jerboa (I haven't tested a mobile browser)

Especially looking to see if it happens on other instances/other browsers/other mobile clients

Information:

• Desktop OS: Windows 10
• Desktop browser: Firefox
• Mobile client: Jerboa
• Instance: lemmy.dbzer0.com

I initially just chalked this up to the instance being slow, but I recently noticed it not happening when logged out

I googled but all I found were people trying to do it the other way 'round (lemmy posts on their mastodon feed)

I'm about to be unemployed, and I'm looking to get some certificates for either Tableau or Power BI to make myself more marketable to prospective employers. I use Tableau in my current workplace and consider myself a "Beginner". I'm not great at it, but not horrible either (I can more make things look pretty than write extensive calculated fields).

I've never used Power BI, but based on a bit of research, it seems like it's more commonly used in companies that are not already focused on data analytics. I've watched a few videos on Power BI, but never used the app myself. It definitely looks more user-friendly than Tableau, though.

Can anyone offer any insight as to which app would be more marketable to have a certificate in when looking for entry-level jobs? Thanks you!

Its been going on for months. Everything else casts fine and I've tried reinstalling the apps, using different devices and doing it by Mirroring my screen. Casting brings disney up but I get spinning wheel of death then nothing