When fixing a 3D printer always go for the proper solution right away, because you will eventually get tired of the wonky half-assed solution you've spent hours or days getting to perform properly and just go for the proper solution anyway. Save yourself the frustration, time, and wasted filament in failed prints and do it right the first time.
3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![]()
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
Ok, adding to this I know ten days later: a janky fix that works now becomes a time bomb to troubleshoot later.
Buy the upgrade. It will make you much happier in the end.
Epoxy isn't cheap, unless you have it on-hand already or buy in-bulk. So you can burn ten-or-so-dollars on an epoxy fix that might or might not work as desired, or $40 on an upgrade that should.
That said, are you sure the printer is otherwise in good working order? Have you tried shimming that bearing and running a test print?
Simply let someone reprint that part for you in ASA/ABS?
Resin isn't that cheap either. Then there's shipping. That said, if shimming works for test-prints, it may work for this. Personally, I can't believe there's not a wedge-centering end-cap or set-screws for dialing in the centering of the bearing just-so, but I'm no expert on this printer.
The bearing is supposed to self center on the shaft with the fitment between the bearing and the shaft. I can't imagine the pain of trying to manually adjust those very tight tolerance parts for the perfect alignment. Far better to make the housing the bearing goes into correctly from the start.
If the bearing were loose on the shaft, this would be a different conversation entirely.
If adjustment/refinement of the fit in the housing were out of the question, it shouldn't be made out of plastic, but even in the world of metal-cutting machine tools, adjustment is often neccessary, and if a shim, spacer or set-screw does the job, its what is done.
Meanwhile, my own suggestion was, first, the upgrade kit.
Try to somehow fix it in place, shim it for example. See if that works for now. When you got the printer printing at least a little, print a replacement part.
Epoxy can be a bit of a crap shoot with plastics. It works wonderfully for some, a not at all for others. I have worked a lot with epoxy and plastics are always a "try somewhere else in the part" thing. Also, if there is grease on the part" forget it. Even with epoxy especially formulated for plastics.
If all you want is to use the epoxy as a filler, it may work.
I have searched aliexpress, and there are kits for around 17€. I don't know what the shipping and customs are where you live.
Ultimately I used a gel style superglue to fill in the gap and it worked. Even if it doesn't bond to the metal it's just there as a filler. I can't find a replacement part or an stl. There's zero play now and I'm getting good prints. I see a lot of other issues happening long before the bearings go bad.