nieceandtows

joined 2 years ago
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[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 15 hours ago (1 children)

Thanks for the advice. I'm still learning, so what makes you say regular supports would be better for this compared to tree? I always struggle to get off tree supports from thin/skinny parts and end up breaking them.

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 17 hours ago (1 children)

I did that last night, but couldn't get the supports to show up for under the gourd like thing. . I thought may be orca knows it better than me on supports, but sure enough it detached itself midway. What's worse, I woke up this morning and tried to remove the supports on the face, and they were super hard to remove. I pulled them with needlenose pliers and ended up ripping off the whole face of the instrument. Are my settings wrong, or did I just let it cool down too much? I used the settings from here https://www.reddit.com/r/OrcaSlicer/comments/15yjz2a/best_tree_support_settings_ive_used/

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 17 hours ago

If I were to design one like this, where would I best go? I'm learning Freecad, but I assume Blender is more suited for this thing?

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 17 hours ago

lol yeah it's a traditional string instrument from the south of India. It's around the size of a bass guitar

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 17 hours ago

How would I go about putting them together? With super glue?

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 3 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I think the issue is at least partly due to a wobbly table. I just took off the printer and placed it on the floor, redid the self test, and it's printing a lot better than before.

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 4 points 2 days ago (2 children)

I ran the built in leveling and input shaping self test last night, and often run calibration before print

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 2 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Printable Area Z Offset = 0mm and Extruder Offset is 0x0mm

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 4 points 2 days ago (7 children)

Also, what does this mean?

 

This is the model I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572809

I printed these by using the official orca profile from Creality for Orca Slicer: https://wiki.creality.com/en/ender-series/ender-3-v3/quick-start-guide/how-to-use-orca-slicer-with-ender-3-v3

  1. Why are the squares looking so wonky? Which setting is responsible for this?
  2. I see some spots where the prints moved to other places, but I run bed leveling every time. Is it bed warp, or some other profile setting I need to tweak? I wiped the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol before I printed this, btw

EDIT:

Looks like the issue was with the wobbly table. I placed it on the floor, reran the self tests, and it's now printing a lot better!

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 2 weeks ago

Got it, thank you

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 1 points 2 weeks ago (3 children)

How frequently would I need to replace a nozzle?

 

I already ordered 1kg hyper pla white from creality ($8). What else I can buy during black Friday? I'm not sure what I'll be printing other than trinkets and household items. These are the ones I currently have in my cart. Please let me know your thoughts and advice.

White petg 1kg from creality $6

Anycubic: petg texture gray, pla+ black, Pla strawberry pink - $26

Please let me know if I should get something else instead.

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 3 points 3 weeks ago

The baby is trying to establish that the defendant went to the restaurant to gain enough energy needed to murder the victim in cold blood.

 

I see a Creality Ender 3 V3 (not SE or KE) for $130 refurbished, and also a Creality CR-10 SE for $103 refurbished on ebay. Are either or these a good choice to get into the hobby, or am I making a mistake? Should I rather buy a Bambu? My budget is around $100-$200 max. Please advise.

 

(she reproduced the art from a book and colored it)

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