3DPrinting

I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

I have to wonder how New York plans to police the entire internet. This would appear to enforce a law that only those who weren't going to "break" such a law are going to follow anyway.

[Picture shows the light centered on the seatpost using my 'fixed' housing]

The Lezyne Zecto Drive 200+ was designed to mount off-center on the seatpost of your bicycle, for some reason.
I did a very basic redesign and printed a new rear housing so it's mounted and centered properly.

You can see in the picture below that the groove for the seatpost in the Lezyne housing is offset to one side. I assure you: it is noticeable and annoying.
I designed a basic rear housing with a groove in the center to remedy the position and put band-hooks in mirrored positions on either side—another thing the Lezyne didn't do, for some reason.

This is V1 out of PLA Pro and if I like it i will ask a friend of mine to print it in CF-infused nylon.

I'm also planning a hard-mount version via a bolted clamp, because that's my style, but i didn't have the correct length bolts on hand.

Images below not loading?
Album link: https://ibb.co/album/qBrDWk

While they are far less Common then thier PLA Counterparts, PETG does also have Filaments that Glow in the Dark. Has anyone here tried them and maybe wanna share what they think of them and if they would recommend them?

This is my 400mm 110v silicone heat made on my bed. Suddenly nothing would stick toy bed any more, regardless of temp, offset, and adhesion assistance agents. I finally looked at the center of the bed was puffy. I was able to slide a ruler in between the aluminum bed and the pad. It took a bit of elbow grease to pull off the edges. Dunno how close to disaster I was but it's a little too close for comfort. It never overheated in all my use and the thermal fuse is still in tact but the scorch mark is still disturbing.

I was having a hard time finding a dice box that fit my slightly larger than normal dice, so I made my own! It uses magnets to stay closed, and the top acts as a dice tray for rolling.

I'm pretty basic with my cad skills. I learned OpenSCAD out of spite after fully getting off of windows a while back, and thus losing access to Fusion360. I tried to made this as parametric as possible, with the ability to adjust for different sized dice and magnets controlled by variables at the top of the file.

I'm sure there are things in the code that are not optimal, but the model works really well and I have been using this for a while. Figured I'd post it online and share here as well.

First one done, everything seemed to work, assembly was relatively straightforward and the instructions were great.

Changes - buffer tubes were printed separately with variable layer height in Orca, I've read this helps feeding filament, settings:

Adaptive height 0.08, radius 4.

Triangle Lab kit only seems to come with long springs for the buffer tube, so you'll be building the long stroke version. I wasn't aware there were multiple versions so no loss. They are on the BoM though, so hopefully it saves someone else having to scour the instructions to see if the "missing springs" are needed.

I think I'll try printing the housings for the next one with support, some of the overhangs are a bit misshapen and had to be cleared out with a drill bit. This may still bite me further down the line when I need to fit the module to the base.

It seems like it shouldn't be too difficult to take apart if necessary.

I'd think about bending the solder tabs on the motors before soldering as well, it's a bit of a squeeze inside the housing and it's harder to bend them after.

Hopefully I'll get a second housing printed this week and at least another module assembled at the weekend.

Highlighting some really bad PFA problems and some overly optimistic printing profiles. As well he gets some insider information about the corners that were cut to get this printer made with legacy hardware.

cross-posted from: https://feddit.org/post/12926734

I've just taken a quick look, I've not checked off the BOM yet, but motors, boards, PTFE tube and a collection of parts have arrived. There's a bit of a description/warning sheet and a link to a Google drive with it too. Will check out some more over the next couple of days.

So, found out the hard way that you can't apply heat to neodymium magnets. Had 16 magnets to press into a print (tool holder). Thought since the soldering pen I use for inserting threaded nuts into prints works so well, I would use it for this too. And it did work well, but now all the magnets are not magnets any more. Yup, heat will demagnetize them. Part is useless, so had to trash it. Found out something new, but wish I had heard about this beforehand.

Hi there, So I'm not a total n00b to 3D printing, but I'm not a pro either, so I thought I'd post here to get some insight on my suspicions.

I downloaded this little gizmo thing off Thingiverse. I didn't design it. For several years, I had a InfuriEnder 5 which I got about 3 good prints out of in a dozen. So I upgraded to a Bambu Labs A1 with AMS Lite, which I love. Everything I've printed (and it's been A LOT) has printed flawlessly with no input from me, until this little gizmo thing.

As you can see, it is printing a bit stringy, and I know enough to know it's very likely because it's basically trying to print in thin air without supports and the layers arent adhering to each other in the horizontal areas. Now, it doesn't really have major issues. It ends up perfectly usable but I want it to be better. Preferably without supports. The designer says it doesn't need supports but all of the places that this happens is clearly where things are horizontal "out in space". For example, the stringy bits of the main photo above, that piece printed flipped from the way it's sitting in the photo, so it would have printed the dome up.

ANYWAY. Could this be improved by just slowing down the printer to encourage better layer adhesion or something? I am trying to avoid supports because once it works out, I want to print a TON of these and I want to avoid a lot of post cleanup.

More images: 2, 3

I got some of the Sunlu High Speed PLA that I've been hearing good things about. On the first print I discovered that, while it prints beautifully, it creates a ludicrous amount of dust going through the extruder.

So I open it up to clean it out, when suddenly the tensioning spring shoots out. Searched for about an hour in total, it's nowhere to be seen.

I'd been thinking of replacing the extruder for a dual gear one anyway, so I took the opportunity to order a nice one from Micro-Swiss.

The problem is, that I have an FLSun Q5, and I'd seen from videos online that it doesn't quite sit flush - you need to print a spacer.

So I needed to get the printer patched up for one last hurrah. The spring was salvaged from a broken clothes peg. And it worked perfectly - not just "well enough", but easily as good as the original.

So in summary, if it helps anyone, losing the spring doesn't mean you need a new part - a clothes peg spring works just as well.

Quick update on this problem:

As suggested, I turned on one-wall in the slicer. That eliminated the holes.

However, I also turned on ironing and that seems to have created black smears in the white letters: it looks like black material that got picked up by the white nozzle at the edge of the letters and got dragged across.

I know it's ironing because it's just at the surface and it scratches off easily with the tip of an x-acto knife.

So, I think ironing may not be such a great idea with such small bi-color features. Maybe the smearing is acceptable on the edge of a large features with another color, but those letters are 10mm so it kind of ruins them across the entire width.

Apart from that, there are gaps between the black and the white material on the right-hand edges of the letters. But it only shows under the microscope: they're not really visible, and certainly don't stand out like the black holes right in the middle of the letters like before.

So for the next print, I'll turn off ironing and see how it goes. I think one-wall alone will do nicely.

Thanks for the tips everybody!

Share some of your favorites! It could be a fun discussion/way to discover new prints.

Example categories:

• Functional vs Fun
• Free vs Paid
• Simple vs Complex

An image (or link if it's okay by the mods) would be appreciated too.

They happen when lines meet where the width of the feature isn't an exact multiple of the extruder's width and the printer has trouble filling in the void. Usually they're fairly invisible, but when printing white on black, they stand out like a sore thumb.

I'm wondering if there's a good simple way of avoid this problem in the slicer. The ultimate fix of course is to print a square sheet of white PLA under the white letter, but I'd rather not mess with my model because it's quite complex already.

I just love 3D-printing. Not only is it almost impossible to produce a custom case like this one using tradtional machining (well, not impossible but phenomenally difficult and expensive), I can crank out a complete enclosure with the electronics mounted inside with only a few hours of CAD'ing and printing for a few bucks.

From thought to professional-looking product in less than a day and super-cheap! What a wonderful technology. It never ceases to amaze me 🙂

I got a new Biqu H2V2 for my Ender 3 pro , since myold hotend started getting unreliable and that was a great excuse for yet another upgrade.

I wasn't happy with the carriage holder I printed, so I wanted to print a new one. After afew hours of printing, I needed to abandon one part, since it was incredibly messy with blobs of PLA gooped on the print. Since I needed the new carriage mount, I didn't think anything off it and simply abandoned that part and continued the other ones.

Today, I saw that the heating block is completely gooped up with PLA (see pictures). So now, I got two questions:

1. How should I remove that gunk? I was thinking o| carefully peeling of everything without the silicone sleeve while the hotend is at a low PLA-bending temp, like 150°C, or 175°C.
2. What caused this? Flowrate too high (the prints look the part)? Too fast extrusion? Heatcreep?

Thanks in advance. (: